Food photography can be done with a variety of lenses. Here are some common choices: - macro lens: For example, a 90mm,f/2.8 macro lens was suitable for shooting details and close-ups of food. It could show the subtleties of food very well. - Standard lens: For example, the PE 50mm,f/1.8 lens can be used to capture the overall effect of food. When you need to capture more scenes such as desks, it can be used to expand the scope of the photo. - Zooming lens: For example, the R - 24 - 70 lens of the Sony1 (if you have a budget), or the 24 - 70 lens of the Sony1 for a lower budget, or the 24 - 70 lens of the Sigma2 for a lower budget. If you use your phone to shoot, you can turn on the phone's 2x portrait mode lens to shoot the food. Read more exciting novels for free
For photography enthusiasts, there were many telephoto lenses to choose from. If you like to shoot portraits, flowers, plants, and street humanities, 70 - 200mm f/2.8 and 70 - 200mm f/4 are good choices. The focal length and aperture are more suitable. If you are keen on shooting birds, lotus flowers, and long-distance scenery, you need a longer focal length, which is more suitable for 300mm or more, such as 70 - 300, 100 - 400, etc. In addition, there were rumors that Canon would release an RF200 - 500mm F5.6LIS USM lens in the future, which might also become the choice of some telephoto lens enthusiasts. Tenglong's telephoto lens also had a variety of choices, such as Tenglong 90 macro, Tenglong 50 - 400, Tenglong 18 - 300, etc., which could be selected according to different needs. Nikon also had 24 - 200 telephoto lenses to choose from. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Tilt-shift photography, also known as tilt-shift photography, was a photography method that used a shift-shift lens to create a work. The characteristics of shift-lens photography were closely related to the characteristics of shift-lens. The most notable feature of the shift-axis lens was that it could shift, tilt, or rotate the main optical axis of the entire photographic lens while maintaining the position of the camera body and the film plane, thereby adjusting the perspective relationship of the photographed image or achieving full-area focusing. The reference clear image field was larger to ensure that the main optical axis of the lens could still obtain a clear image. It was also known as the "TS" lens ("TS" is the English "tilt and shift"),"oblique lens","shift lens" and so on. The main functions of shift-lens photography were as follows: 1. Correct perspective distortion: Reflect clearly in architectural photography. For example, when using a wide-angle focal length lens to shoot the shape of a building, the lines of the building's shape would converge upward due to the perspective effect of the near and far. However, when using a shift-axis lens to shoot, it could rely on its perspective adjustment function to correct this line convergence phenomenon, so that the building remained vertical in the picture, avoiding the feeling of tilting or even tilting. 2. [Realization of regional focus: Commonly used in commercial photography for product advertisements.] By combining the pan and tilt shooting functions of the lens, while correcting the perspective distortion of the subject, it can achieve a full-area focusing effect that is difficult to achieve with ordinary photographic lenses, so that the subject near and far in the picture can form a clear image. The photos and videos taken by the shift-lens photography were like miniature models, which could fully express the feeling of a "man-made city", which was unique and interesting. After using the shift-axis photographic lens on the 35mm single-lens reflex camera, it could be equipped with the function of a large-scale combined camera to control the perspective by adjusting the leather cavity, thus expanding the scope of use of this camera. It played a major role in the field of professional photography. For example, Canon's 135mm system's original, most widely used shift-axis lens, the ts-e 17mm4L, was regarded as an artifact. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Here are some tips on how to use DSLR cameras for photography homework: ** 1. The camera settings ** 1. ** Shooting Mode ** - Try to use manual mode. Manual mode allowed the photographer to precisely control the camera's parameters according to the specific shooting scene and needs, while automatic mode might not be able to meet some special shooting requirements. 2. ** White Balance Setting ** - If there was a color difference in the photo, it might be caused by the use of household light bulbs or the camera's default automatic white balance setting was inaccurate. In this case, you can try to set the white balance to daylight mode, or try to take a photo in all other white balance modes to compare which mode is closer to the actual color. 3. ** Setting of the sensitivity ** - For example, the higher the value, the brighter the photo, but at the same time, the more likely it was to have noise. It needed to be adjusted together with other values (such as aperture, shutter speed, etc.). For example, for a small object, you can set it to 200, and for a large object, you can set it to 400. 4. ** Exposing settings ** - The exposure value was displayed as-0.7,-0.3, 0, 0.3, 0.7, 1, etc. The higher the value, the brighter the photo. You can set the exposure value to 0.3 during the test shoot. 5. ** Shutter Speed Setting ** - Shutter speeds such as 1/60, 1/80, 1/100, 1/125, etc. The smaller the decimal value, the slower the speed, the more light entering the camera, and the brighter the photo taken. 6. ** Aperture setting ** - The smaller the aperture value, the larger the aperture. The more light entered, the brighter the photo. The larger the aperture value, the smaller the aperture. The less light entered, the darker the photo. It was important to note that the aperture and aperture value were in inverse proportion. The value on the camera was the aperture value, and the result after the adjustment was the aperture. For example, a photo taken with an aperture value of 3 is brighter than a photo taken with an aperture value of 6. ** 2. Shooting Techniques ** 1. ** Composing Skills ** - Diagonal composition, triangular composition, and other methods could be used to make the picture more beautiful and stable. He could also try the full-body composition method. - When shooting, you can stagger the composition or capture the moment when the character walks by to create a picture-in-picture effect. 2. ** Basic principles of filming ** - To make the photo have a clear and distinct theme, whether it was a person, a still life, or an event, it needed to be clearly expressed to avoid ambiguity or all-encompassing. - A good photo must draw attention to the subject so that the audience could immediately notice the core of the photographer's intention. - It made the photo more concise and removed those elements that couldn't set off the subject or even distract attention. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
There were many types of Canon DSLR lenses for character photography. Among them, the 35mm f1.4 lens had excellent performance in portrait shooting. It could capture the delicate expression of the character and show the surrounding environment. The f1.4 large aperture background blurring effect was good, suitable for traveling portraits or indoor portraits. The 85mm f1.2 medium-focus lens could capture the details and expressions of the characters while maintaining a certain distance on the full frame. The picture was natural and realistic. The f1.2 large aperture allowed it to take bright and clear photos in low-light environments. The blurring effect was better than that of the 35mm f1.4 lens. The 70 - 200mm f2.8 telephoto zoom lens had a flexible focal length range, and the background blurring effect was better than the 35mm and 85mm lenses. It was suitable for long-distance shots such as stage portraits, athletes, concerts, etc., but indoor shooting required a large space. The EF100mm F2.8L IS USM lens could be used for macro and portrait shooting. It had double IS optical image stabilization, good sharpness and out-of-focus performance, and ideal autofocus speed for macro shooting. The ESF135mm F2LIS USM lens was a close-up shot of a portrait. It could bring a stronger sense of compression and better blurring effect. The focusing speed was fast, the lens body weighed 750g, and the image quality was excellent when the aperture was fully opened. It was sharp inside the focus and soft outside the focus. The 50mm fixed-focus lens was also commonly used for portrait shooting. The F1.2 lens with a large aperture had a better portrait shooting effect. The 50mm focal length belonged to the standard focal length, and the shooting effect was close to what the human eye could see. It would not cause space compression and could better express the surrounding environment of the subject. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
If it was about DSLR photography, the following were some of the key points for DSLR photography: ** 1. Selection of shooting mode ** 1. ** Portrait Shooting ** - **A (Aperture priority mode)**: suitable for portrait shooting. In this mode, the aperture size could be adjusted manually. A large aperture (such as f/1.8, f/2.8, etc.) could make the background blur, highlight the main body of the character, and obtain a natural blurring effect. It could also increase the amount of light in the case of insufficient light. - **M file (full manual mode)**: Can be used for portrait photography. The photographer had to manually set the sensitivity, aperture, shutter speed, white balance, exposure compensation, focus, color temperature, and other parameters. This mode was suitable for taking portraits under complex lighting conditions, such as indoor lighting or scenes that used specific lighting to create a special atmosphere. 2. ** Shooting of moving objects ** - **S (Shutter priority mode)**: Adjusts the shutter speed. The faster the shutter speed, the more it can freeze the instant image of a moving object. It is suitable for capturing people, animals, or sports events in motion. 3. ** Scenery Shooting ** - **M (Full Manual Mode)**: It is very useful when shooting scenes such as sunrise, sunset, night scene, sea of clouds, starry sky, etc. For landscape photography, you can manually adjust the sensitivity, aperture, shutter speed, and other parameters according to the desired effect. For example, when shooting the starry sky, high sensitivity, large aperture, and slow shutter speed were needed (generally, a tripod was needed to keep the camera stable); when shooting sunrise and sunset, the parameters had to be adjusted according to the light intensity and the desired color effect. ** 2. Shooting Points ** 1. ** In terms of composition ** - ** Find a unique subject **: Choose a good-looking or oddly-shaped subject. This kind of subject will be easily remembered by the audience. - ** Use geometric composition **: For example, a triangular composition can make the picture full of geometric beauty. When shooting a picture that contained multiple elements, the elements could be arranged and combined to form a triangle to increase the stability and beauty of the picture. 2. ** Focus ** - Portrait and animal photography: If you are shooting portraits or animals, pay attention to the light in your eyes. This will make the subject more vivid. For animal photography, you can use methods such as feeding to get the animal to cooperate so that the eyes of the subject have a bright reflection. 3. ** Picture level ** - When shooting a scene, you can increase the layering of the picture by changing the angle of view. For example, lowering the angle of view, using the front and back arrangement of the characters or the changes in reality to create a sense of hierarchy. ** 3. Later adjustments ** Most of the photos taken by the DSLR camera were original photos. They couldn't completely restore the scenery seen by the human eye, so they needed to be retouched later. He could use the phone APP to adjust the light, shadow, contrast, saturation, atmosphere, color temperature, clarity, and other parameters of the photo to adjust the photo to his liking. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
In the case of indoors, due to the influence of space and environmental light, lenses with relatively short focal lengths were generally selected, such as 35mm, 50mm, or 16 - 35, 24 - 70 medium and short focal lengths. Aperture was very important when shooting indoors. Since the indoor light was not as bright as the outdoor light, a large aperture was essential to ensure that the lens had a good amount of light. Due to the focal length, the short focal length lens had a relatively weak ability to compress space and blur the background during shooting. A large aperture could also have a better ability to blur the background when the focal length was short. Generally, the aperture of the fixed-focus lens could be made larger, and the sharpness was also higher than that of the zoom lens. Therefore, the fixed-focus lens was generally used for indoor portrait shooting, but this also varied from person to person. Generally, photography agencies would use fixed-focus lenses to ensure high sharpness and quality of the film. Generally, photography enthusiasts would use a 16 - 35 large three-dimensional lens. As long as they could guarantee the brightness when shooting, they could also get a good performance. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
There were many factors to consider when choosing a photoshoot. In terms of focal length, lenses between 70 - 300 were more commonly used. Medium telephoto lenses could complete the work without affecting the person being filmed, but individual scenes also needed to be replaced with wide-angle lenses. In fact, full-focal length lenses might be used, but medium telephoto lenses were more commonly used. At least a 70 - 200 lens was needed. If funds allowed, they could add a wide-angle lens to the two cameras. Judging from the impact of the overall performance of the camera on the choice of lens, news photography required the camera to be able to shoot continuously at high speed (about 6 photos per second), have good high sensitivity performance (at least at the time of Iso6400, the noise can meet the photo usage requirements), suitable frame (C frame or full frame), fast focusing speed, and on the basis of meeting these camera performance requirements, the lens that was suitable for it was selected. From the perspective of lens types, the zoom lens could quickly adjust the focal length on the news scene, making it easy to capture important moments. Although the fixed-focus lens was not the only choice, it could bring the advantage of image quality, focusing more on the picture, light and shadow, and composition, making the picture full of story. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
The following is some basic knowledge about DSLR photography: ** 1. Choosing a camera ** 1. ** Follow the principle of having enough ** - For novices who mainly took photos, if the budget was limited, there was no need to blindly pursue a full-frame bucket machine. Many full-frame bucket machines had comprehensive functions, but they might cause some functions to be idle. For example, for people who didn't often shoot videos, the video function would be wasted. Half-frame models such as the APSC could meet the needs of many novices. For example, Fuji had done very well in the entry-level market and had not launched a full-frame model. - When purchasing entry-level cameras in 2024, the APSC camera still had some advantages, such as the importance attached by various manufacturers, such as the upgrade of the filter in the Sony-ZV-E10II, the cost-effective model Z30 launched by Nikon, and the half-frame opening of Canon's radio bayonet. 2. ** Choose the camera first, then consider the body ** - Full-frame lenses were usually much more expensive than half-frame lenses. For example, when the prices of the A6700 (half-frame) and A7M3 (full-frame) were similar, many novices would choose the full-frame model due to price factors, but the cost of the full-frame lens would be higher when changing the lens later. - Some brands of full-frame lenses had limitations. For example, Canon's full-frame radio frequency mount was not open, and there were few third-party lenses, while the original lens was expensive. As for Fuji and Sony, there were more third-party lenses, Nikon's z-mount was open, and third-party zooming and fixed-focus lenses were gradually becoming more abundant. Pantheon lenses were basically enough, but the Sima 28 - 70 had a premium and was not easy to buy. 3. ** Take the usage of the surrounding veterans as reference ** - If there were experienced photographers around with a lot of lenses, he could borrow their lenses after he familiarized himself with the camera and changing the lens. ** 2. Basic camera operation ** 1. ** Shutter Operation ** - Pressing the shutter was divided into two steps. First, press it gently halfway (Half Past). At this time, the viewfinder autofocus symbol would flash. If there was a sound prompt, it would make a "beep" sound. This was the camera's autofocus and light measurement. After this process was completed, he pressed it a little harder. When you press the shutter, bend the first section of your right index finger downward. Use light force. Do not knock hard, hit hard, or shake. Try to find support, such as a tripod. If there is no tripod, you can use tables, big stones, pillars, trees, corners, etc. At the same time, you must control your breathing. Take a breath before pressing the shutter, hold your breath and press it again. Exhale after pressing it. If one were to shoot a moving object, due to the camera's "time lag," one had to consider the amount of time in advance. The brain had to analyze and predict the other party's movements and rhythm. 2. ** Aperture setting ** - The aperture was a device that controlled the amount of light that entered the camera through the lens. It could be adjusted by rotating the adjustment ring on the lens or the knob on the body of the digital camera. The larger the aperture, the greater the amount of light entering, the smaller the depth of field, and the smaller the f-value. When the light was strong, the aperture was reduced, and when the light was dim, the aperture was opened. When taking a portrait, if only one person was taken, the large aperture could be adjusted to blur the background and highlight the main body. When taking a group photo, a small aperture of about f8 could be set to ensure that everyone's face was clear. 3. ** Light sensitivity (USB)** - The high or low sensitivity of the camera meant that when the exposure value was the same, the higher the sensitivity of the camera, the faster the shutter speed could be used to obtain the same exposure. In a bright environment during the day, the sensitivity should be adjusted to 100 to ensure better image quality. When the environment is dark, the exposure should be increased to ensure normal exposure. However, even in a very dark environment, the sensitivity should not exceed 6400. When it is too dark, you can use the fill light. 4. ** Shooting Mode ** - ** Fully Automatic Mode (Auto)**: It is suitable for beginners or when you need to take a quick shot. The camera would automatically control the aperture, shutter speed, and so on to achieve the appropriate exposure. In some cases, it would use a flash to fill in the light. - ** Automatic Program Mode (P)**: It is suitable for users who have a certain foundation in photography and want to explore more creative control. In an environment where the lighting conditions did not change much, the camera could manually adjust the USB, white balance, etc. The camera would automatically adjust the aperture and shutter to maintain the correct exposure, and could lock the exposure value or adjust the dimming mode. - ** Aperture priority mode (A or Av)**: When controlling the depth of field is the key, such as portrait photography, macro photography, or when a specific background blurring effect is required. Setting the aperture size manually determines the clear and blurred parts of the picture, and the camera automatically adjust the shutter speed to match, helping to create the desired depth of field effect and control the exposure. - ** Shutter priority mode (S or Tv)**: For shooting dynamic scenes, when you need to control the motion blur effect, such as sports events, wild animals, or water currents. By setting the shutter speed, you can freeze or blur the action, and the camera will automatically adjust the aperture to ensure exposure. - ** Manual mode (M)**: suitable for photography professionals or photographers who have high requirements for camera control. It was used in complex lighting environments, when precise control of exposure was required, or when creating specific visual effects. All parameters, including aperture, shutter speed, and so on, needed to be manually set. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
There were many techniques and key points in food photography: 1. ** Scenery ** - It was better to choose a background with patterns. Try to avoid pure black or pure white background as much as possible. This way, the level of detail would be richer. After determining the location of the main subject according to the nine-square grid composition rule, the set was expanded on this basis. For example, he could place a chopping board, a napkin, and a spoon to strengthen the main body. - When setting up props, if the main body is thin, it can be grouped. For example, a bowl of fried rice could be paired with olive oil and lemon to form a prop group. He could also use the leaves of the parsley to fill in the blank areas of the picture, making the picture more vivid. Adding small objects such as dried fruits and cherry tomatoes could enrich the details of the picture, and the placement of the props should be paid attention to showing a natural sense of scattering. 2. ** In terms of composition ** - The common top-down flat composition was very common in food photography. For example, there were a lot of posts about top-down food under the #flatlay tag on Instagram. - He could use the nine-square grid composition to place all the delicacies in the six squares below the nine-square grid to take a big shot. You can also use the central composition method, where the main food is placed in the middle of the picture, surrounded by props (suitable for a scene with one main body); Diagonal composition, where the main tableware is placed in a diagonal form (to make the composition more dynamic); Triangle composition, suitable for scenes with three to four main objects, arranged in a triangular manner (more stable and harmonious visual relationship). 3. ** In terms of shooting effects ** - To narrow the scope of the shot, a vertical shot could give a good two-dimensional display of the food, and if the props in the photo were relevant, the picture would not be messy even if there were many elements. For example, when the elements were mostly circular, the circular elements of different sizes were unified, and the picture was orderly after being shot vertically. - It could be achieved through the layout of the front, back, high, and low. When shooting from above, if there were flowers blocking the lens, it would produce different scenes from the lens, and the layering would be reflected. 4. ** In the later stages ** - If you need to change the background to a pure color (for example, pure black), you can use Snapseed software, select the brightness curve in the curve tool, pull the dot from the upper right corner to the lower right corner to make the photo black, and then use the mask function to smear the parts other than the main food. If you want to change the background to other materials, you can use Snapseed's double exposure function to add a prepared background photo and adjust the position and clarity. Then, you can use the mask function to smear the parts outside the main food, but be careful that the food light and shadow may not match the new background light and shadow. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
What kind of lens should I use for a portrait? Several cameras and lenses were recommended for portrait photography. The Canon 5D4 and 6D2 cameras were praised for their excellent image quality and portrait color performance. Canon 5D4 was equipped with a 30.4-million-pel full-frame sensor and 4K video function, suitable for portrait photographers. The Canon 6D2, on the other hand, had a high cost-performance ratio and excellent portrait color performance. It was suitable for photographers with limited budget but pursuing high quality. In addition, 35mm and 50mm lenses were also considered good choices for portraits. The 35mm lens was suitable for full-body shots and street photography, which could better express the surrounding environment of the subject. The 50mm lens was natural and suitable for indoor and outdoor shooting. In addition, an 85mm telephoto lens was also recommended. Using a large aperture to blur the background, it could shoot beautiful portraits. In general, Canon 5D4 and 6D2 cameras with 35mm, 50mm, or 85mm lenses were good choices for portraits.