Advanced video tutorial for DSLR photography
There was a tutorial called " DSLR: From Beginner to Master Advanced Photographic Skills " that was more suitable for advanced DSLR photography. This tutorial consisted of 64 high-quality, ultra-high-definition tutorial sessions, which explained the methods of DSLR photography in a comprehensive manner. It covered the basics of photography, photography techniques, and many other aspects. Knowledge points included understanding the DSLR camera, basic techniques of DSLR photography, the use of aperture and shutter, the use of photographic lenses, zooming and other special photography techniques, shooting methods of various subjects, the application of light and shadow, the flexible use of RAW format, and digital darkroom retouching techniques. It was different from other purely theoretical courses. The host used many examples to explain the knowledge of DSLR photography and video recording. The lecturer personally demonstrated the DSLR camera to everyone and introduced each component. It could allow the learner's DSLR photography level to reach a higher level. It was suitable for many types of photography friends to read and learn, such as beginners, those who were familiar with the camera but the quality of their work needed to be improved. Those who want to improve their portrait photography and wedding photography, as well as those who want to be proficient in using PS software to accurately color, retouch, and embellish. Read more exciting novels for free
Simple DSLR photography tutorial
The following is a simple DSLR photography tutorial: ** I. The structure of a single-lens reflex camera ** 1. Understanding the body, lens, sensor, viewfinder, shutter, display, and other components were the basic components of an DSLR camera. ** 2. Shot parameters ** 1. ** Type of lens **: For example, Canon lenses include different types of lenses such as EP, ESF-S (AP-S format), MP-E (1x or higher), and TS-E (shift-axis lens). 2. ** focal length **: For example, the Canon EF24 - 105mm f/4LIS USM lens, 24 - 105mm means that the maximum wide-angle end is 24mm, and the maximum telephoto end is 105mm; if there is only one value, it is a fixed-focus lens. 3. ** Maximum Aperture **: f/4 represents the maximum aperture, only one value represents a constant aperture lens, and two values represent the maximum aperture of the wide-angle end and telephoto end respectively. For example, L represents a Canon professional lens (with a red circle in front of the lens), IS represents anti-shake function, USM represents an ultrasonic motor, and II represents the second generation of this lens. ** 3. Focus related knowledge ** 1. ** Introduction to focal length **: It refers to the distance between the center of the lens and the surface of the sensor. The unit is millimeters (mm). 2. ** Focus length, field of view and depth of field **: The shorter the focus, the larger the shooting range and the greater the depth of field; the longer the focus, the smaller the shooting range and the smaller the depth of field. 3. ** Focus length and x-ray effect **: The shorter the focus, the stronger the x-ray effect (greater distortion); the longer the focus, the weaker the x-ray effect (lesser distortion). ** 4. Movie Tune ** 1. ** Concept **: Shadow tone refers to the brightness of a photo. Bright photos are high-profile, dark photos are low-profile, and neither bright nor dark photos are mid-tone. 2. ** Different shades **: Bright objects are suitable for high-profile performance, while dark objects are suitable for low-profile performance. ** 5. Shooting Mode Setting (for beginner users)** 1. ** Automatic or P mode **: suitable for beginner users who have just come into contact with the DSLR camera and haven't learned it in depth. Basically, there are not many settings. Just press the shutter and you can shoot. 2. ** AR (Aperture priority mode)**: You can set the aperture value (F value) yourself. The smaller the F value, the larger the aperture, and the higher the degree of blurring outside the main body. It is suitable for shooting scenes such as portraits, food, and macro scenes that focus on blurring the background. The higher the F value, the smaller the aperture, and the better the layering of the scenery. 3. **TV (Shutter priority mode)**: Set the shutter value manually. The smaller the value, the longer the exposure time inside the camera. It is suitable for shooting moving objects in a dark indoor environment (a tripod is needed to prevent the image from blurring). The higher the value, the shorter the exposure time of the camera. It is suitable for shooting fast-moving objects to prevent the subject from blurring the photo due to high speed. 4. **M (Manual)**: You need to manually set the shutter, sensitivity, and aperture size. It's relatively difficult, but it's a necessary skill for professional photographers. For example, outdoor portrait: 1/100s, 100F1.2 - 2.8; indoor portrait: 1/80s, 1500F2.8 or below; baby/pet photography: 1/200 or above, 100 - 800F1.4 - 5.6; still life/gourmet photography: 1/80s- 1/200s, 100 - 400F1.2 - 4. ** 6. Shutter Usage (Focus)** When you press the shutter, press it slightly. When the small square in the lens appears in the position you want to shoot (indicating that the focus is successful), then press the shutter. This way, the photo won't be out of focus. If the DSLR is a touch screen, the position where the hand touches will be the focus. ** 7. Setting of light sensitivity (USB)** The higher the sensitivity, the brighter the photo, but the worse the quality, the more noise; the lower the sensitivity, the darker the photo, but the better the quality, the less noise. Generally, it was recommended not to exceed the range of 1600. If you were to shoot outdoors on a sunny day, you would only need to shoot around 100. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Mooncake shooting tutorial, photography video tutorial
Here are some mooncake shooting guides: 1. ** Shooting with professional equipment ** - ** Equipment preparation **: Canon 6D2 camera, 100mm lens, Shiniu Flash 600 second-generation light, etc. - ** Lighting ** - [Main light: Use a Divine Bull Flash 600 second generation. The accessories are standard covers. Light the background at the two o'clock direction on the back right side. To create a window effect, a window pane can be added in front of the light.] - "Assist light: Use another Shiniu Flash 600 second generation, and choose a long soft light box as the accessory. Light the main mooncake on the front right side. Pay attention to the position of the lamp head not to lean towards the background to avoid affecting the background light effect. - "Light fill: Use a large foam board to fill the light on the left side. If the shooting time is during the day and the fill light effect is not good, you can add natural light to make the light ratio more uniform. - ** Concept of composition **: For example, use the door as the background, place the main body on the table, arrange the props according to the rhythm of height, and use a flat angle to reflect the daily feeling. - ** camera parameters **: Aperture set to 5.6, shutter speed 1/160 seconds, USB 100, main light output 1/8, auxiliary light output 1/32. - [Post-production plan: adjust the white balance, increase the brightness of the shadows, increase the clarity and contrast, sharpen the outline of the props and the main body, and reduce the saturation of the blue primary color to reflect the dark atmosphere.] 2. ** Phone Shooting ** - ** Creating a sense of atmosphere **: Place the mooncake on a white plate, turn on the phone's 2x focal length (to prevent the plate from distorting), use some green plants as the background, and focus on the mooncake on the three-point line under the nine-square grid. - [Increase layering]: Take a book and place it under the plate. Use the top-down angle to center the composition. You can also place some cutlery on the side to form a parallel diagonal line. - ** Framed composition **: Break some mooncakes apart, take a cup, and use the cup handle to form a framed composition. The combination of virtual and real will create a sense of atmosphere. - Other techniques: Find a well-lit window, take two white rags, and pose the mooncake. Use the desk calendar as a prop to magnify it twice and make a diagonal composition. You can take a cup of tea as the background, click the portrait mode, adjust the aperture value to F2, and focus on the mooncake to create a sense of reality. You can also cut the mooncakes and stack them up and down. Find a magazine as the background, place the mooncake in a good position, magnify it three times and place the mooncake on the right three-point line. 3. ** Shooting in different styles ** - ** Simple Shooting ** - [Props: Various colors of cardboard. Melon seeds, walnuts, peanuts, and other common mooncake ingredients or grains may be used.] - ** Light **: Two lights to create a shadowless effect, shooting in the light. - ** Cameras and composition **: Aerial shot (God's perspective), using the golden ratio composition. - ** Chinese Style Shooting ** - Setting up the scene: Find a Chinese window pane and all kinds of old boards to set up the front and back. Find a Chinese vase that is similar to the color of the cheongsam and insert golden osmanthus. When the back is in space, you can hang calligraphy practice paper, pen rack, cast iron pot, etc. on the background cloth. Or use two boxes of mooncakes, a small porcelain plate, oil painting background paper, and a small table as props. You can also use two boards and a few old wooden trays. Add the four treasures of the study and tea set to create a Chinese atmosphere full of books. - ** Light distribution **: It can be used as a single bare light + standard cover, backlit on the right, and filled with light on the front left side. - ** Shooting method **: You can take a test shot, the photographer can take a selfie (such as a 10-second selfie after changing into a cheongsam after the scene is set up), take a close-up of the mooncake, etc. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Video tutorial on indoor architecture and furniture photography
The following are some tutorial points for indoor architecture and furniture photography: ** 1. Equipment Selection ** 1. ** Cameras ** - If you use a single-lens reflex camera or a micro-camera, a camera with a high resolution (high million-pel count) would be better to ensure that the image is clear and delicate, making it easy to capture the details of buildings and furniture. A camera with a full-frame sensor would have better low-light performance and a wider dynamic range, allowing clear and low-noise images to be taken under different lighting. It would be best to have a tilted screen or a hinged LCD screen to facilitate multi-angle composition. There was a wireless connection (Wi-Fi or Bluetooth) function to facilitate the transfer of images for sharing and editing, and the ability to shoot in RAW format would provide greater flexibility in post-processing. - If it was mobile phone photography, different phone lenses had different usages in the shooting. For example, a 0.5x scope could be used to surround and push forward the lens to shoot the main body of the furniture. 2. ** Shot ** - For indoor architecture and furniture photography, wide-angle lenses were more commonly used. On a full-frame camera, a wide-angle lens with a focal length of 14 - 24mm was suitable for indoor shooting. The focal length of 14 - 16mm was suitable for narrow spaces (such as narrow corridors or small rooms), and the focal length of 20 - 24mm was suitable for larger rooms. If someone who had just come into contact with a non-full-frame camera, the entry-level lens 18 - 55mm could be tried. If the lens was seriously deformed, the 50mm lens could be used to shoot multiple parts and then combined. - The shift-axis lens helped to correct perspective distortion and kept parallel lines unconverged when shooting in a compact indoor space. ** 2. Picture composition ** 1. ** Law of Penetration ** - One-point perspective was commonly used in home space photography. Its characteristics were that it was flat and stable, with the center point in the middle. It had a sense of steadiness and was suitable for expressing the sense of space. All the lines were concentrated on the vanishing point. There were also two-point perspective and three-point perspective, but one-point perspective was more commonly used in home space photography. - Every inch of distance should be cherished when composing a picture. Retreating to make space could improve the sense of space in the photo, and the flipping viewfinder screen could help with composition. 2. ** Other composition points ** - The classic rule of thirds composition could place the subject at the intersection of the four points of the rule of thirds, but sometimes it was not necessary to follow this rule in order to convey special emotions and artistic conception. - The key composition technique of indoor space photography was horizontal and vertical. It was necessary to ensure that the camera did not tilt, tilt, and rotate. This way, the photos of the open scene would not have obvious "distortion." In addition to balancing the picture and setting off the theme, the large aperture could create a combination of virtual and real effects. ** 3. Light and exposure ** 1. ** Light usage ** - Light and darkness were very important in indoor space photography. The indoor space had to be presented in a three-dimensional and complete manner in the picture, with clear primary and secondary levels. If you want to highlight a certain subject, you can achieve this by adjusting the surrounding light to make it darker. - In the face of a large indoor and outdoor light ratio (such as indoors being too dark or windows being exposed), you can use HPR technology to take 7 - 9 photos on a tripod for surround exposure. Later, the synthesis will solve the problem of excessive contrast. 2. ** Exposing parameters ** - In terms of aperture selection, it is recommended to use F8 - F11 or other small apertures when shooting indoor buildings and furniture to ensure that every detail is clearly visible. If the camera was used to capture the atmosphere of the furniture, such as the Canon 5D Mark IV camera, the aperture f/5.0, exposure time 1/125, and the parameters such as the Iso100 could be used as a reference. Different focal lengths (such as 47.0 or 70.0) could be selected according to the specific shooting effect. ** 4. Shooting Operation and Techniques ** 1. ** Using a tripod ** - A tripod was essential when taking home photos. In addition to maintaining stability when taking slow shutter shots, it could also check if the camera was level. 2. ** Shutter Release Usage ** - In daily shooting, if you use f18 and Iso100, you need to expose for 10 - 30 seconds. At dusk, the sky may be dark and you may need 45 seconds or more of exposure. At this time, you need to use the shutter release with the B shutter. 3. ** Cell phone shooting technique (for furniture)** - For example, you could choose a 0.5x scope to surround and push forward to shoot the main body of the furniture. You could also choose a 1x scope to shoot the character walking forward and other different lens times to combine the split-lens shooting idea. For example, the first shot used a 1x scope, the second shot used the character to pick up something, the third shot used a 0.5x scope to start shooting, the phone was placed somewhere and then thrown, and the fourth shot was pulled out from the back of the character. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Video tutorial for mobile phone shift photography
The following is a video tutorial for a mobile phone camera: First, he had to turn on the camera's axis shift mode and adjust the focal length to 3.2x. Then, he could shoot a video with the effect of axis shift (similar to the feeling of Lilliput). <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Online clothing photography video editing tutorial
The following is an online clothing photography video editing tutorial: 1. ** Material preparation and preliminary processing ** - ** Material Selection **: Carefully inspect the materials and classify them according to different styles. For example, classify materials related to clothing separately. At the same time, pay attention to the color, brightness, saturation, sharpness, and other conditions of the original image. - ** Material Selection **: Choose materials that can highlight the characteristics of the clothing and conform to the style of the online store. For example, choose materials that can show the overall appearance and details of the clothing (collar, cuffs, patterns, etc.). 2. ** import material into editing software (take editing as an example)** - He opened the clip and clicked on "Start Creation" to add the clothing photography video material that he had previously shot. 3. ** Video editing operation ** - ** Remove Unneeded Portions **: If there are unnecessary parts at the beginning of the video (such as the preparation stage of shooting), you can scroll back the video bar and segment it at an appropriate position (such as before the character starts to show the clothing-related actions), then delete the unnecessary parts at the beginning. If there were extra parts in the middle of the video, such as pauses or mistakes between the characters 'movements, they would also be cut and deleted. - ** Freeze and Picture in Picture operation **: For example, when displaying the effect of a certain moment of clothing, you can freeze it at that moment. Then, he would cut the frozen part into the picture-in-picture and perform an image key (such as smart image key) operation. After successful image key, he could make a key frame for subsequent adjustment. If the size and position of the characters or costumes in the picture-in-picture were not suitable, they could be adjusted to coordinate with the original video. - ** Add transition effect (option)**: If it is a combination of multiple video clips, you can add a transition effect to make the transition more natural. For example, when the main layer imported two videos, if you wanted to add an overlapping transition, you could click on the small white block in the middle of the video to add it. You could also adjust the transition time to control the transition speed. For the PiP part, you can use the Opacity transition (Open the Opacity at the beginning, set the value to 0 and key frame it, move back to 100 for a certain amount of time to create a fading effect) or the Mask transition (Open the Mask at the beginning of the PiP, choose the appropriate mask shape, adjust the relevant parameters such as rotation, feathering, etc., and key frame it at the beginning and after moving for a certain amount of time to create a special transition effect). 4. ** Video effect adjustment ** - ** Add filter **: To make the clothes look better in the video, you can add a filter, adjust brightness, contrast, saturation, light sensitivity, sharpening, and other parameters. You can also adjust HTL (such as fine-tuning the color of the clothes), color temperature, color tone, etc. to make the image look more vivid and match the style of the clothes. - ** Add music **: Choose suitable music from the music library and add it to the video. For example, choose a lighter and fashionable music that is suitable for most online clothing videos. The music could be split into segments, leaving only the climax or suitable clips to match the length of the video. 5. ** Video export **: After completing the above operations, click "1080p" and expand the frame rate to the maximum to export. This way, you will get a clothing photography video that is suitable for online stores. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Is there a video on the DSLR?
Yes, the DSLR has a video recording function. Some DSLR cameras could shoot up to 1920x1080p video, such as Canon DSLR 6d2, 6d, 5d3, Nikon D750, D810, etc. Some DSLR cameras could shoot 4K or even super video, such as Canon DSLR 5d4, 1dx2, Nikon D500, D850, etc. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
DSLR photography is white
DSLR photography may be caused by the following reasons: 1. ** Over-exposure **: Over-exposure will cause things to lose a lot of details and become layered, causing the image to turn white. 2. ** Flash is too strong **: If you use a DSLR flash to shoot, the flash will be too strong, and the photo may appear white. 3. ** White balance setting problem **: The camera is not that smart. Different light may affect its judgment of white. For example, under dim indoor light or incandescent light, it may cause deviation in white and become white. 4. ** Inappropriate shooting mode **: If you use the scene shooting mode, but the actual shooting scene does not match the selected mode, it is easy to cause color reproduction problems, which may lead to white. 5. ** Mishandling color settings **: DSLR cameras are highly controllable. Mishandling color settings may cause unnecessary problems, including the image turning white. 6. ** Monitor effect **: If the shooting scene is bright and observed through the monitor, there may be problems with inaccurate exposure and color reproduction, which may cause the picture to turn white. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Mobile phone photography and DSLR photography
There were many differences between cell phone photography and DSLR photography: ** 1. In terms of hardware ** 1. ** Shot ** - DSLR had the huge advantage of being able to change lenses. By using lenses with different focal lengths, such as wide-angle, telephoto, macro, etc., they could take photos with different effects to satisfy more personal shooting ideas. For example, when shooting scenery, the wide-angle lens could accommodate a wider scene, and when shooting close-ups, the macro lens could show the details of the microscopic world. - Although mobile phone lenses had multi-camera combinations such as main camera, ultra-wide angle, telephoto, and so on, there was still a gap in the flexibility and professionalism of the focal length compared to the DSLR lens. Moreover, it could not be freely changed to meet special shooting needs like the DSLR lens. 2. ** Light-sensitive element ** - The size of the sensor of the DSLR was larger, which allowed it to better control noise at high sensitivity and capture light better. In dark environments, such as night scenes, it could take photos with better quality and richer details. - The light-sensitive element of the mobile phone was relatively small, and it was easy to produce more noise under high sensitivity. The ability to shoot in dark light was limited, but the mobile phone manufacturer made up for this deficiency to a certain extent through algorithm optimization. 3. ** Control of shooting parameters ** - DSLR cameras could manually and precisely control the aperture, shutter, sensitivity, white balance, and many other parameters. For example, by adjusting the aperture size, you can control the depth of field and achieve the effect of background blurring. By adjusting the shutter speed, you can capture different instantaneous effects of moving objects, such as a high-speed shutter freezing the moment of movement, a slow shutter shooting the light track, and so on. - Although cell phones also had a professional mode, which could adjust some parameters such as sensitivity and shutter speed, the flexibility and accuracy of operation were not as good as that of a single-lens reflex camera. Moreover, many users relied more on the automatic shooting mode of the cell phone in their daily use. ** 2. In terms of shooting convenience ** 1. ** Volume and Portableness ** - The mobile phone was small and light. It was an item that people carried with them on a daily basis. It could be used to take photos anytime and anywhere. It was very suitable for capturing moments in life. - DSLR cameras were relatively large, heavy, and inconvenient to carry. They needed special camera bags and other equipment. They might miss some shooting opportunities because they were not portable. 2. ** Ease of operation ** - The cell phone was easy to operate and highly automated. For a novice photographer, he only needed to turn on the camera and press the shutter at the subject. The camera would automatically complete the measurement, focus, exposure, and other operations. Moreover, the camera function of the phone integrated many intelligent algorithms, such as beauty, scene recognition, etc., which could quickly get good photos. - The operation of a DSLR camera was relatively complicated and required a certain amount of learning costs. It required mastering the settings of various parameters and the use of function buttons, but its advantage was that it could be customized according to the photographer's creativity. 3. ** Post-processing ** - Mobile photography came with a lot of convenient post-production functions, such as filter, crop, color matching, etc. After shooting, you could immediately perform simple post-processing and share. Some phones also used software algorithms to perform deep optimization, such as computational optical to improve the quality of photos. - The post-production work after the shooting of the DSLR mainly relied on computer software, such as Adobe Photoshop, etc. The operation was relatively complicated, but it could carry out more detailed and professional post-processing. ** 3. In terms of shooting effects ** 1. ** Picture Quality and resolution ** - The photos taken by the single-lens reflex camera had a high level of image quality, resolution, color reproduction, and so on. Especially when the output was large, it could show more delicate details and more accurate colors. - Although cell phone photography was constantly improving in terms of the number of resolution, the overall picture quality was still inferior to that of a DSLR camera. When zooming in to see the details of the photo, it was easy to have problems such as blurriness and noise. 2. ** The artistry and atmosphere of the photos ** - When using traditional equipment such as old lenses, the photos taken by the single-lens reflex camera often had a unique texture, atmosphere, and light sense, such as film feeling, oily feeling, etc. This feeling was the result of the optical characteristics of the lens, the internal structure of the camera, and other factors. - Due to the optimization of the algorithm and other reasons, mobile photography photos were often clearer and sharper. To a certain extent, it lost the artistic sense and atmosphere of traditional photography and pursued more to restore the real scene. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
How to add music background video tutorial to Apple photography
To add background music to a video on an iPhone, you can only use a third-party tool. Here are some common software methods: - ** Wuta camera, Meitu, video editing software, etc. **: First open these third-party tools, then click on the main interface to shoot a video or upload the required video from the photo album, click on the background music, and choose the background music you want. - ** TapSlide-software (for editing photos into short videos and adding music)**: 1. He opened the installed [TapSlide''s] software and clicked the [Add Image] button on the homepage. 2. On the photo selection page of the phone, select the photos that you want to add music to (at least 6 photos). 3. After making the selection, he clicked the [Start] button to enter the background music selection page, and then chose the music file he wanted to add. 4. After adding the music, he clicked the [Save to album] button on the page to export the short video. 5. The export process may take some time. When the page prompts "Success!" It indicated that background music had been successfully added to the photo. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
photography tutorial
Here are some photography tips: 1. ** In terms of exposure ** - ** Shutter **: When the other parameters remain unchanged, the higher the shutter speed, the longer the light entering time, the more exposure, and the brighter the image; otherwise, the darker the image. - ** Aperture **: The smaller the aperture parameters, the greater the amount of light entering, the more exposure, and the darker the image. The larger the aperture, the smaller the depth of field. The smaller the aperture, the greater the depth of field. - ** Iso-sensitivity **: The higher the sensitivity, the lower the shutter speed required to obtain the same exposure effect. When the light is dim, the sensitivity can be increased, but the increase in sensitivity will cause the image quality to be lacking and grainy. When there was sufficient light, the sensitivity was generally around 100, and it was best not to exceed 3200. There was a triangular relationship between the three. The higher the aperture value, the smaller the aperture, the smaller the amount of light entering, and the depth of the field. The higher the shutter value, the slower the shutter, the greater the amount of light entering, and the slower the speed. The higher the IQ value, the greater the amount of light entering, and the lower the quality of the image. 2. ** Setting of exposure mode ** - ** Fully Automatic **: The shutter speed and aperture are automatically calculated by the camera and cannot be changed during shooting. After confirming other elements, press the shutter. - ** Program auto exposure mode (P)**: The camera will automatically calculate the shutter speed and aperture combination. The photographer can modify the parameters. - ** Shutter priority mode (S or TV)**: The camera will keep the shutter speed set and automatically calculate the appropriate aperture size. - ** Aperture priority mode (A or LV)**: The camera will keep the aperture size set unchanged, calculate the appropriate shutter speed, and maintain a large aperture when shooting portraits. - ** Full Manual Gear (M)**: The shutter speed and aperture are set by the photographer. The photographer is required to be familiar with the shutter speed and aperture combination. 3. ** Focus * - [Manual Focus (MV)]: It is suitable for close-range shooting and is a precise focusing method. - ** Automatic Focus ** - ** AF-S (Single autofocus)**: Can be used to pose for portraits, still life, and architectural shots. After half-pressing the shutter to focus successfully, the shutter can be fully pressed. - ** AF-C (Continuous Focus)**: Used for moving objects, capturing people and animals. Half-press the shutter to focus continuously. - ** AF-A (Smart autofocus)**: The camera automatically determines whether it is focused on a single shot or a continuous shot based on the subject, but it is easy to make mistakes and cause out of focus. 4. ** White Balance ** - Correct the color temperature and restore the color of the subject so that the color of the picture is similar to that of the human eye. - He could adjust the overall color atmosphere by controlling the color temperature. If he increased the K value of the color temperature, the photos would be warm, and if he lowered it, the photos would be cold. 5. ** Focus **: The depth of field is related to the focal length. The smaller the focal length, the clearer the background and the greater the depth of field. At the same time, he had to be familiar with the characteristics of different focal lengths such as super wide angle, 24mm, 28mm, 35mm, 50mm, 85mm, 100mm, 135mm, 200mm, 300mm, etc. 6. ** Light Usage **: The outdoor morning and evening light angles are the best, and the light quality is the softest. 7. ** In terms of composition **: The photo usually involves the main body, the accompanying body, the environment, the front, the background, and other elements. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>