In still life photography, different lenses had different advantages and could be chosen according to the needs: 1. ** Medium telephoto lens (50mm and above)**: - This type of lens was less prone to distortion and could better restore the horizontal and vertical shape of the main body. There were two types of lenses, fixed-focus and zooming. The focal length of the fixed-focus lens was fixed, and the zoom lens could zoom within a certain focal length range. - For example, a 70 - 300mm focal length zoom lens may not have a constant maximum aperture, and a 70 - 200mm focal length lens with a constant maximum aperture of F4. Lenses with a non-constant aperture were relatively cheaper, but there were differences in terms of image quality and blurring effects. 2. ** macro lens **: It can focus at a closer distance. It is suitable for shooting close-ups and local details of still life and food. There are different specifications such as 60 macro, 80 macro, and 100 macro for you to choose according to the actual situation. 3. ** Telephoto lens **: suitable for shooting very detailed subjects, such as flowers, leaves, and fruits. When you need to get close to the subject, you can set the camera to the AR (Aperture First) mode and choose a long focal length as much as possible. The long focal length can compress the angle of view and make the subject stand out. However, if you want to shoot everything on the table, you can also use a standard 50mm lens or a wide-angle lens. 4. ** Large Aperture Fusing Lenses **: Able to produce a blurring effect, making the picture softer, giving a sense of transition between reality and reality, making the picture more warm. At the same time, it can avoid the messy background, and there are usually smaller and lighter options. Read more exciting novels for free
There were many factors to consider when choosing a photoshoot. In terms of focal length, lenses between 70 - 300 were more commonly used. Medium telephoto lenses could complete the work without affecting the person being filmed, but individual scenes also needed to be replaced with wide-angle lenses. In fact, full-focal length lenses might be used, but medium telephoto lenses were more commonly used. At least a 70 - 200 lens was needed. If funds allowed, they could add a wide-angle lens to the two cameras. Judging from the impact of the overall performance of the camera on the choice of lens, news photography required the camera to be able to shoot continuously at high speed (about 6 photos per second), have good high sensitivity performance (at least at the time of Iso6400, the noise can meet the photo usage requirements), suitable frame (C frame or full frame), fast focusing speed, and on the basis of meeting these camera performance requirements, the lens that was suitable for it was selected. From the perspective of lens types, the zoom lens could quickly adjust the focal length on the news scene, making it easy to capture important moments. Although the fixed-focus lens was not the only choice, it could bring the advantage of image quality, focusing more on the picture, light and shadow, and composition, making the picture full of story. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
In landscape photography, there were several shots to choose from: 1. ** Large zoom lens (such as 18 - 200mm)**: This type of lens is suitable for carrying outside, but due to the large zoom ratio, the image quality is relatively ordinary. It is only suitable for daily life records, not suitable for creative and commercial use. Its aperture was small, making it difficult to shoot a dream-like blurring effect. It was also difficult to shoot with a hand in a dim environment because the amount of light entering was small. 2. ** Wide-angle lens (24 - 35mm)**: It is the most commonly used lens for landscape photography, especially the 28mm focal length. This focal length lens could highlight the background and enhance the sense of space in the picture. It could be used as the main lens for landscape photography. 3. ** Super wide-angle lens (below 24mm)**: It can expand the shooting range, better highlight the prospects, and shoot a picture with a strong visual impact. However, when using it, one had to pay attention to the perspective distortion and the glare phenomenon when shooting against the light. 4. ** Telephoto lens (70mm and above)**: Commonly used lenses are 70 - 200mm, 100 - 400mm, etc. This type of lens could compress the space, making the background and the background closer to each other, creating an artistic image. Furthermore, the telephoto lens combined with the large aperture could blur the background, making the effect ideal. However, telephoto lenses were generally heavier and had certain physical requirements. If you go out to shoot scenery works, you can consider bringing a 20 - 35mm lens, a 70 - 200mm or 70 - 300mm lens, and a 100-micro lens for shooting flowers, insects and other macro subjects on the road. Super wide-angle lens, ultra-long focal length lens, fisheye lens, etc. had their own functions and characteristics in landscape photography, but they could only be used in specific situations. They could be purchased and used according to personal shooting habits. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
For outdoor photography of children, 70 - 300mm telephoto zoom lens or 80 - 400mm telephoto zoom lens could be used. If there was no such telephoto lens, 50mm and 85mm fixed-focus lenses were also good choices. Amateur photographers could also consider the more cost-effective 50mm small spittoon lens. In addition, the Nikkor Z70 - 200mm f/2.8VR S telephoto zoom lens and the Nikkor Z50mm f/1.8S standard fixed-focus lens could also be used for outdoor photography. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
For beginner photographers, there were several types of telephoto lenses that were more suitable. Canon's RF100 - 400mm F5.6 - 8 IS USM was a relatively good choice. It was affordable and suitable for entry-level users. The lens had a 4x zoom ratio, and the focal length covered the 100 - 400mm telephoto focal length. The overall weight was only 635g, and the size was small, similar to bottled drinks, making it easy to carry. When paired with Canon's Eos R5 or R6 body, storage and hand-held shooting were very easy. It used nine sets of 12 lens structures, one aspheric lens and one UD (ultra-low dispersion) lens to effectively compensate for aberrations, suppress aberrations, and reduce color halos. The full aperture could also clearly display details such as leaves and bird feathers and capture the texture. At the 200mm end, the closest focusing distance was 0.88m, and the maximum magnification was 0.41X, which could obtain a beautiful blurring effect. In addition, the ESF-S55 - 250mm F4 - 5.6IS ATM was also an ultra-long-range lens that could clearly capture long-distance scenes. It was easy to carry and was very suitable for fans to shoot long-distance scenes such as concerts. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Here are some Canon lenses suitable for still life photography: - "EF100mm f/2.8L IS USM: It is equipped with dual IS image stabilisers. It works well in macro photography. It can achieve a hand shake compensation effect equivalent to a shutter speed of level 4 at normal shooting distances. The lens body is drip-proof and dust-proof, making it more suitable for outdoor shooting environments. - "RF100mm F2.8L MCROIS USM: The first L-class macro lens in Canon's radio frequency system. The maximum magnification can reach 1.4 times, and it can achieve different visual effects by controlling spherical aberrations." In addition, the fixed-focus lens also had certain advantages when shooting still life. For example, the 50F1.8ATM was suitable for shooting portraits and still life shots, and the blurring effect was better. There was also a portrait fixed-focus lens such as the Sima 30F1.4, which had good image quality, large aperture, and excellent blurring effect. It could also be used for still life shots. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Tilt-shift photography, also known as tilt-shift photography, was a photography method that used a shift-shift lens to create a work. The characteristics of shift-lens photography were closely related to the characteristics of shift-lens. The most notable feature of the shift-axis lens was that it could shift, tilt, or rotate the main optical axis of the entire photographic lens while maintaining the position of the camera body and the film plane, thereby adjusting the perspective relationship of the photographed image or achieving full-area focusing. The reference clear image field was larger to ensure that the main optical axis of the lens could still obtain a clear image. It was also known as the "TS" lens ("TS" is the English "tilt and shift"),"oblique lens","shift lens" and so on. The main functions of shift-lens photography were as follows: 1. Correct perspective distortion: Reflect clearly in architectural photography. For example, when using a wide-angle focal length lens to shoot the shape of a building, the lines of the building's shape would converge upward due to the perspective effect of the near and far. However, when using a shift-axis lens to shoot, it could rely on its perspective adjustment function to correct this line convergence phenomenon, so that the building remained vertical in the picture, avoiding the feeling of tilting or even tilting. 2. [Realization of regional focus: Commonly used in commercial photography for product advertisements.] By combining the pan and tilt shooting functions of the lens, while correcting the perspective distortion of the subject, it can achieve a full-area focusing effect that is difficult to achieve with ordinary photographic lenses, so that the subject near and far in the picture can form a clear image. The photos and videos taken by the shift-lens photography were like miniature models, which could fully express the feeling of a "man-made city", which was unique and interesting. After using the shift-axis photographic lens on the 35mm single-lens reflex camera, it could be equipped with the function of a large-scale combined camera to control the perspective by adjusting the leather cavity, thus expanding the scope of use of this camera. It played a major role in the field of professional photography. For example, Canon's 135mm system's original, most widely used shift-axis lens, the ts-e 17mm4L, was regarded as an artifact. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
The lens halo was a common phenomenon in photography. It was caused by the lens group consisting of multiple lenses. Although the lens had high penetration, there was reflection and scattering. The light rays that did not maintain the same direction as the incident light formed a halo, and the internal reflection and scattering of the lens were the main reasons. ** 1. The factors that affect the formation of lens halos ** 1. ** Shot structure ** - The more complicated the lens structure, the more halos appeared in the image. 2. ** Focus ** - Wide-angle lenses could deal with halos better because a short focal length would make the light source look small. Telephoto lenses performed poorly and needed to be equipped with a longer hood because telephoto lenses would magnify the picture elements. 3. ** Film coating ** - Different brands of lens coating technology were different, such as Canon's NAC coating, Nikon's NCC coating, Fuji's SuperEBG coating, Zeiss 'T* coating, Pentax's Smc coating technology, etc. Multi-layer coating lens components had a greater impact on the lens halo. 4. ** Color filter quality ** - Poor quality filter would cause more light spots and ghosting in the image, which would affect the lens flare. 5. ** Dust on the lens ** - Dust inside the lens would cause more lens halos, and all lenses would accumulate dust. ** 2. Ways to avoid lens flare ** 1. ** Use the hood ** - Most lenses would be equipped with a hood, which could prevent light from shining directly on the front mirror of the lens, effectively avoiding glare, and also protect the lens in the event of a slight impact. Petal shaped lens hoods usually had a better effect than non-petal (round) lens hoods because the petal hood took into account the aspect ratio of the camera film or digital sensor. 2. ** Cover ** - When shooting, use leaves, buildings, or body parts of the character (such as the head, shoulders, etc.) to block some direct light. You can also put your hand on the lens to block the sunlight (the hand forms a "C" shape and adjust the angle until the halo disappears, but be careful not to block the lens). 3. ** Use a fixed-focus lens instead of a zoom lens ** - The structure of a fixed-focus lens was simpler than a zoom lens. There were fewer optical components and less lens halos in the image. The structure of the zoom lens was complicated. The hood could not block all stray light at all focal lengths. There were more reflective inner surfaces inside, which made it easier for the lens to glow. 4. ** Changing the angle of the camera ** - Changing the shooting angle could change the position of the light source in the lens to prevent direct sunlight from entering the lens and eliminate the lens halo. It could also be recomposed to block the light source from the elements in the picture. If the halo was strong when it was backlit, the halo would be weaker when it was changed to side backlit. ** 3. Techniques of Using the Halo of the Shot ** 1. ** Change the angle of the sun to shoot ** - When taking photos with a lens halo, you can move the shooting position left and right to block the light from the target or part of the object. If the sun was behind the subject, the subject would be more attractive under the glow of the lens. 2. ** Shooting with a zoom lens and hood removed ** - To highlight the lens halo effect, you can use a zoom lens and a wide-angle lens instead of a fixed-focus lens. 3. ** Confirm and plan the position of the lens flare in the image ** - Because the lens halo might make the photo beautiful in some corners of the picture, but not necessarily in other positions, it was necessary to outline the shooting angle and the angle of the light to take an interesting photo. 4. ** Create the required light source ** - If you can't find an ideal light source, you can create it with photography methods, such as lamps, light bulbs, studio lights, or flashes. 5. ** Find the right time to shoot ** - Light at different times had different characteristics. The light in the morning was softer. Understanding the characteristics of natural light could make interesting photos. Light at different times could bring different emotions to the image. 6. ** Backlight Shooting ** - In order to have a lens halo, the image was shot using backlighting photography, such as backlighting to create an edge light or silhouette image. 7. ** Try to move the corner to adjust the light reflection ** - Moving the corner to adjust the amount of light reflection can get the reflected light that is suitable for the image content, such as water reflection or light passing through the bridge hole. Backlight photography may require manual focus because the camera will capture areas with darker light sources. 8. ** Try different apertures ** - When adjusting the aperture, the reflected light will produce different effects. Try different apertures to get the desired effect. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
The following types of lenses are suitable for landscape photography: 1. ** Wide-angle lens **: The focal length is between 24 - 35mm, and the 28mm focal length is especially commonly used in landscape photography. This kind of lens could highlight the prospects and enhance the sense of space in the picture. It was one of the main lens choices for landscape photography. For example, Canon's EF16 - 35mm f/2.8L III USM lens and Nikon AF-S NAKKOR 14 - 24mm f/2.8G ED lens were all wide-angle lenses suitable for landscape photography. The former had excellent optical performance and wide viewing angle, which could be used for landscape and architectural photography; the latter was famous for its excellent sharpness and color reproduction ability. 2. ** Ultra-wide angle lens **: With a focal length below 24mm, it can expand the shooting range and highlight the prospects. It can capture a strong visual impact, but you must pay attention to perspective distortion and backlighting glare. For example, the SonyFE12 - 24mm f/4G provided an extremely wide viewing angle and excellent optical performance; the Fujinon XF10 - 24mm f/4R OIS was specially designed for the Fujinon X-mount with a wide viewing angle and excellent image stabilization. 3. ** Telephoto lens **: Generally, the focal length of 70mm and above belongs to the range of telephoto lens. Common ones include 70 - 200mm, 100 - 400mm, etc. This type of lens could compress space, making the front and background closer to each other, creating an artistic image. The telephoto lens combined with the large aperture could also produce an ideal blurred background effect. However, telephoto lenses were generally heavier. For example, Nikon's 70 - 200mm f/2.8E EFL ED VR was known as the "divine tool for travel photography". It had a wide range of uses, but it was heavier. Canon's 70 - 200mm f2.8L IS II USM had high sharpness at full power, and buyers rarely regretted it. 4. ** Standard zoom lens **: Covers the focal length from wide-angle to medium-focal length. High flexibility, suitable for a variety of scenes, including landscape photography. For example, Canon's RF24 - 105mm f/4L IS USM covered wide-angle to medium-telephoto focal lengths and had good image stability; Nikon's Z24 - 120mm f/4S was specially designed for Nikon's Z-mount, with a wide focal length and excellent optical performance. 5. ** A world-famous large zoom lens (such as 18 - 200mm)**: It is suitable for carrying outside, but due to the large zoom ratio, the image quality is ordinary, and the aperture is small, it is not suitable for creative and commercial use. It is difficult to shoot dream-like effects. It is difficult to shoot in a dim environment. It can be used for daily life records. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
There were many styles of still life photography, and the following were the common ones: ** 1. minimalist style ** - Special traits: - They focused on a simple shooting style and emphasized the details of the still life. This style used the elements of the picture to be reduced, presenting the main body in a concise and clear way. - They usually used clean backgrounds, simple color combinations, a large amount of white space, and minimalist items. They might have a strong Japanese style and could contain a different kind of life. - [For example, when shooting some simple daily necessities, such as a single cup placed in front of a white background, there are not too many decorative elements. The shape, material, and other details of the cup are highlighted through a simple picture.] ** 2. Fresh style ** - Special traits: - In terms of framing and material selection, most of them came from everyday objects such as toys, potted plants, cups, food, tableware, and other things that could express the atmosphere of life. - In terms of color selection, blue, green, yellow, and white were the main colors. The use of dark colors such as brown and purple was reduced as much as possible to make the picture bright, elegant, and healing. In terms of color matching, it was generally necessary to choose adjacent colors in the color circle, and it was best to limit the color of the photo to three to five. Too many colors would be messy, and too few would be monotonous. If it is difficult to avoid inappropriate colors in the picture, reduce its proportion. - In terms of tone, the focus was on the effect of light and shadow. The photos with light and shadow had a more layered feel. For example, when the light was strong, the gauze curtain could be used to block part of the light to achieve a soft light effect. ** 3. Creation Style ** - Special traits: - Through a unique composition, scene arrangement, or shooting technique to express creativity. For example, in composition, some special geometric composition or special arrangement of objects could be used to create a formal beauty. - In terms of setting up the scene, props could be skillfully used to increase the interest and story of the scene. For example, when shooting food, according to the characteristics of the food, props that seemed irrelevant but could actually create an atmosphere were used. - For example, arrange fruits of different colors and sizes according to specific shapes or patterns, or use mirror reflections to create unique visual effects. ** 4. Focus on texture and style ** - Special traits: - The main point was to express the texture of the still life through the use of appropriate lighting. - For example, different light angles such as side light, side light, or top light could highlight the texture and luster of the surface of the object. - [For example, if you take a picture of a wooden craft, you can use the side light to clearly show the texture of the wood, making the texture more realistic.] ** 5. Comparing Styles ** - Special traits: - He used color contrast, size contrast, virtual and real contrast to enhance the visual impact of the picture. - In terms of color contrast, it was like a strong contrast between a red flower and a white background. In terms of size contrast, it was like a large main body matched with a small foil. In terms of contrast between reality and reality, it was common to see the close-up scene as real and the background as virtual, and the virtual background was used to highlight the main body. - For example, when shooting a set of still life, place the red cherry tomatoes on a cool plate and background, and use the contrast of cold and warm colors to make the cherry tomatoes stand out. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Here are some key points when taking still life photography with glasses: - ** Setting Selection **: You can choose different backgrounds according to the type of glasses. For example, when shooting pink glasses, you could use blue and orange cardboard as the background, and use a book as the background. When shooting silver-rimmed glasses, you could use a book as the background. - ** Lighting Usage **: If you are shooting indoors, you can use natural light or soft light sources such as table lamps to avoid high light and shadows caused by strong direct light. If possible, use a ring flash or professional photography fill light to make the light more uniform and soft, making the photo more delicate. - ** Shooting angle and composition **: Try to place the glasses on different backgrounds, such as a pure color background, a texture background, etc., to highlight the characteristics and beauty of the glasses by changing the angle and composition. You can also use some props, such as books and flowers, to increase the layering and interest of the photo. - ** Post-processing **: Through simple color mixing and filter effects, the photo can be more in line with the style you want. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>