What kind of lens should I buy for beginner photography?
For beginners, the following lenses were good choices: - **18 - 135mm f/3.5 - 5.6 lens **: It has a wide focal length range, from wide-angle to telephoto, and is cost-effective. It could easily handle a variety of shooting scenes, such as shooting open scenery such as mountains and lakes with a 18mm wide-angle lens, and shooting pedestrians and buildings in the distance on the streets of the city with a 135mm telephoto lens. Although it was a non-constant aperture lens and the quality of the image was not as good as high-end lenses, the price was affordable, allowing beginners to experience multi-focal shooting with little financial pressure. - ** 50mm f/1.8 lens **: This is a lens with a large aperture and high quality. The large aperture of f/1.8 allowed it to shoot well in low-light environments, like city streets at dusk or candlelight dinner scenes. The shallow depth of field effect brought by the large aperture could blur the background and highlight the main body, suitable for portraits and still life shots. - **18 - 55mm lens **: This lens is often used when buying a DSLR camera. Its advantage was that it could help beginners understand the effects of different focal lengths. It was cheap and could help determine if they really loved photography. It could also be used to improve photography skills. Its focal length was more practical and was enough for general shooting. However, there were some limitations when shooting scenery, buildings, and so on that required a wider field of view. - **10 - 18mm wide-angle lens **: The equivalent full-frame focal length is about 16 - 29mm. It has a wide shooting range and can shoot close-up and long-distance shots. The wide-angle lens was relatively cheap. It was light and portable. It also had anti-shake function and an ATM lens. It was suitable for shooting v-log videos. It was more practical to shoot scenery, buildings, and people when traveling. Read more exciting novels for free
What kind of lens should I buy for commercial photography?
If commercial photography has high requirements for image quality, you can choose a fixed-focus lens. If the requirements were not particularly harsh, zooming lenses such as 24 - 70mm and 70 - 200mm could also be considered. This type of zooming lens was convenient to use and could improve the efficiency of filming. It could be used as the first choice for general commercial use. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Elementary photography, that kind of telephoto lens is good
For beginner photographers, there were several types of telephoto lenses that were more suitable. Canon's RF100 - 400mm F5.6 - 8 IS USM was a relatively good choice. It was affordable and suitable for entry-level users. The lens had a 4x zoom ratio, and the focal length covered the 100 - 400mm telephoto focal length. The overall weight was only 635g, and the size was small, similar to bottled drinks, making it easy to carry. When paired with Canon's Eos R5 or R6 body, storage and hand-held shooting were very easy. It used nine sets of 12 lens structures, one aspheric lens and one UD (ultra-low dispersion) lens to effectively compensate for aberrations, suppress aberrations, and reduce color halos. The full aperture could also clearly display details such as leaves and bird feathers and capture the texture. At the 200mm end, the closest focusing distance was 0.88m, and the maximum magnification was 0.41X, which could obtain a beautiful blurring effect. In addition, the ESF-S55 - 250mm F4 - 5.6IS ATM was also an ultra-long-range lens that could clearly capture long-distance scenes. It was easy to carry and was very suitable for fans to shoot long-distance scenes such as concerts. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
What kind of lens is used for outdoor photography?
For outdoor photography of children, 70 - 300mm telephoto zoom lens or 80 - 400mm telephoto zoom lens could be used. If there was no such telephoto lens, 50mm and 85mm fixed-focus lenses were also good choices. Amateur photographers could also consider the more cost-effective 50mm small spittoon lens. In addition, the Nikkor Z70 - 200mm f/2.8VR S telephoto zoom lens and the Nikkor Z50mm f/1.8S standard fixed-focus lens could also be used for outdoor photography. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Shifting lens photography
Tilt-shift photography, also known as tilt-shift photography, was a photography method that used a shift-shift lens to create a work. The characteristics of shift-lens photography were closely related to the characteristics of shift-lens. The most notable feature of the shift-axis lens was that it could shift, tilt, or rotate the main optical axis of the entire photographic lens while maintaining the position of the camera body and the film plane, thereby adjusting the perspective relationship of the photographed image or achieving full-area focusing. The reference clear image field was larger to ensure that the main optical axis of the lens could still obtain a clear image. It was also known as the "TS" lens ("TS" is the English "tilt and shift"),"oblique lens","shift lens" and so on. The main functions of shift-lens photography were as follows: 1. Correct perspective distortion: Reflect clearly in architectural photography. For example, when using a wide-angle focal length lens to shoot the shape of a building, the lines of the building's shape would converge upward due to the perspective effect of the near and far. However, when using a shift-axis lens to shoot, it could rely on its perspective adjustment function to correct this line convergence phenomenon, so that the building remained vertical in the picture, avoiding the feeling of tilting or even tilting. 2. [Realization of regional focus: Commonly used in commercial photography for product advertisements.] By combining the pan and tilt shooting functions of the lens, while correcting the perspective distortion of the subject, it can achieve a full-area focusing effect that is difficult to achieve with ordinary photographic lenses, so that the subject near and far in the picture can form a clear image. The photos and videos taken by the shift-lens photography were like miniature models, which could fully express the feeling of a "man-made city", which was unique and interesting. After using the shift-axis photographic lens on the 35mm single-lens reflex camera, it could be equipped with the function of a large-scale combined camera to control the perspective by adjusting the leather cavity, thus expanding the scope of use of this camera. It played a major role in the field of professional photography. For example, Canon's 135mm system's original, most widely used shift-axis lens, the ts-e 17mm4L, was regarded as an artifact. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
lens flare photography
The lens halo was a common phenomenon in photography. It was caused by the lens group consisting of multiple lenses. Although the lens had high penetration, there was reflection and scattering. The light rays that did not maintain the same direction as the incident light formed a halo, and the internal reflection and scattering of the lens were the main reasons. ** 1. The factors that affect the formation of lens halos ** 1. ** Shot structure ** - The more complicated the lens structure, the more halos appeared in the image. 2. ** Focus ** - Wide-angle lenses could deal with halos better because a short focal length would make the light source look small. Telephoto lenses performed poorly and needed to be equipped with a longer hood because telephoto lenses would magnify the picture elements. 3. ** Film coating ** - Different brands of lens coating technology were different, such as Canon's NAC coating, Nikon's NCC coating, Fuji's SuperEBG coating, Zeiss 'T* coating, Pentax's Smc coating technology, etc. Multi-layer coating lens components had a greater impact on the lens halo. 4. ** Color filter quality ** - Poor quality filter would cause more light spots and ghosting in the image, which would affect the lens flare. 5. ** Dust on the lens ** - Dust inside the lens would cause more lens halos, and all lenses would accumulate dust. ** 2. Ways to avoid lens flare ** 1. ** Use the hood ** - Most lenses would be equipped with a hood, which could prevent light from shining directly on the front mirror of the lens, effectively avoiding glare, and also protect the lens in the event of a slight impact. Petal shaped lens hoods usually had a better effect than non-petal (round) lens hoods because the petal hood took into account the aspect ratio of the camera film or digital sensor. 2. ** Cover ** - When shooting, use leaves, buildings, or body parts of the character (such as the head, shoulders, etc.) to block some direct light. You can also put your hand on the lens to block the sunlight (the hand forms a "C" shape and adjust the angle until the halo disappears, but be careful not to block the lens). 3. ** Use a fixed-focus lens instead of a zoom lens ** - The structure of a fixed-focus lens was simpler than a zoom lens. There were fewer optical components and less lens halos in the image. The structure of the zoom lens was complicated. The hood could not block all stray light at all focal lengths. There were more reflective inner surfaces inside, which made it easier for the lens to glow. 4. ** Changing the angle of the camera ** - Changing the shooting angle could change the position of the light source in the lens to prevent direct sunlight from entering the lens and eliminate the lens halo. It could also be recomposed to block the light source from the elements in the picture. If the halo was strong when it was backlit, the halo would be weaker when it was changed to side backlit. ** 3. Techniques of Using the Halo of the Shot ** 1. ** Change the angle of the sun to shoot ** - When taking photos with a lens halo, you can move the shooting position left and right to block the light from the target or part of the object. If the sun was behind the subject, the subject would be more attractive under the glow of the lens. 2. ** Shooting with a zoom lens and hood removed ** - To highlight the lens halo effect, you can use a zoom lens and a wide-angle lens instead of a fixed-focus lens. 3. ** Confirm and plan the position of the lens flare in the image ** - Because the lens halo might make the photo beautiful in some corners of the picture, but not necessarily in other positions, it was necessary to outline the shooting angle and the angle of the light to take an interesting photo. 4. ** Create the required light source ** - If you can't find an ideal light source, you can create it with photography methods, such as lamps, light bulbs, studio lights, or flashes. 5. ** Find the right time to shoot ** - Light at different times had different characteristics. The light in the morning was softer. Understanding the characteristics of natural light could make interesting photos. Light at different times could bring different emotions to the image. 6. ** Backlight Shooting ** - In order to have a lens halo, the image was shot using backlighting photography, such as backlighting to create an edge light or silhouette image. 7. ** Try to move the corner to adjust the light reflection ** - Moving the corner to adjust the amount of light reflection can get the reflected light that is suitable for the image content, such as water reflection or light passing through the bridge hole. Backlight photography may require manual focus because the camera will capture areas with darker light sources. 8. ** Try different apertures ** - When adjusting the aperture, the reflected light will produce different effects. Try different apertures to get the desired effect. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
What kind of lens does landscape photography have?
The following types of lenses are suitable for landscape photography: 1. ** Wide-angle lens **: The focal length is between 24 - 35mm, and the 28mm focal length is especially commonly used in landscape photography. This kind of lens could highlight the prospects and enhance the sense of space in the picture. It was one of the main lens choices for landscape photography. For example, Canon's EF16 - 35mm f/2.8L III USM lens and Nikon AF-S NAKKOR 14 - 24mm f/2.8G ED lens were all wide-angle lenses suitable for landscape photography. The former had excellent optical performance and wide viewing angle, which could be used for landscape and architectural photography; the latter was famous for its excellent sharpness and color reproduction ability. 2. ** Ultra-wide angle lens **: With a focal length below 24mm, it can expand the shooting range and highlight the prospects. It can capture a strong visual impact, but you must pay attention to perspective distortion and backlighting glare. For example, the SonyFE12 - 24mm f/4G provided an extremely wide viewing angle and excellent optical performance; the Fujinon XF10 - 24mm f/4R OIS was specially designed for the Fujinon X-mount with a wide viewing angle and excellent image stabilization. 3. ** Telephoto lens **: Generally, the focal length of 70mm and above belongs to the range of telephoto lens. Common ones include 70 - 200mm, 100 - 400mm, etc. This type of lens could compress space, making the front and background closer to each other, creating an artistic image. The telephoto lens combined with the large aperture could also produce an ideal blurred background effect. However, telephoto lenses were generally heavier. For example, Nikon's 70 - 200mm f/2.8E EFL ED VR was known as the "divine tool for travel photography". It had a wide range of uses, but it was heavier. Canon's 70 - 200mm f2.8L IS II USM had high sharpness at full power, and buyers rarely regretted it. 4. ** Standard zoom lens **: Covers the focal length from wide-angle to medium-focal length. High flexibility, suitable for a variety of scenes, including landscape photography. For example, Canon's RF24 - 105mm f/4L IS USM covered wide-angle to medium-telephoto focal lengths and had good image stability; Nikon's Z24 - 120mm f/4S was specially designed for Nikon's Z-mount, with a wide focal length and excellent optical performance. 5. ** A world-famous large zoom lens (such as 18 - 200mm)**: It is suitable for carrying outside, but due to the large zoom ratio, the image quality is ordinary, and the aperture is small, it is not suitable for creative and commercial use. It is difficult to shoot dream-like effects. It is difficult to shoot in a dim environment. It can be used for daily life records. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
What kind of lens is good for close-up photography?
For close-up shots, the 85mm lens was a better choice. When shooting a close-up of a person in the 14 - 50mm focal length, the face of the person would be deformed, especially in the 14 - 35mm focal length. The 105mm-300mm focal length would make the person's face look fat due to the spatial compression of the telephoto lens, while the 85mm lens could perfectly restore the size of the person's face. The person's eye distance and hairline could be better presented in this focal length. In addition, the 135mm lens could also be used for close-up shots of people. In theory, it could bring a stronger sense of compression and better blurring effect. It was called a small air cutter, which could separate people from the background very well. However, the usage of this lens was relatively low. It was rarely used for other subjects except for portraits, and it was easily replaced by 70 - 200mm lenses. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
photography homework, single-lens reflex photography
Here are some tips on how to use DSLR cameras for photography homework: ** 1. The camera settings ** 1. ** Shooting Mode ** - Try to use manual mode. Manual mode allowed the photographer to precisely control the camera's parameters according to the specific shooting scene and needs, while automatic mode might not be able to meet some special shooting requirements. 2. ** White Balance Setting ** - If there was a color difference in the photo, it might be caused by the use of household light bulbs or the camera's default automatic white balance setting was inaccurate. In this case, you can try to set the white balance to daylight mode, or try to take a photo in all other white balance modes to compare which mode is closer to the actual color. 3. ** Setting of the sensitivity ** - For example, the higher the value, the brighter the photo, but at the same time, the more likely it was to have noise. It needed to be adjusted together with other values (such as aperture, shutter speed, etc.). For example, for a small object, you can set it to 200, and for a large object, you can set it to 400. 4. ** Exposing settings ** - The exposure value was displayed as-0.7,-0.3, 0, 0.3, 0.7, 1, etc. The higher the value, the brighter the photo. You can set the exposure value to 0.3 during the test shoot. 5. ** Shutter Speed Setting ** - Shutter speeds such as 1/60, 1/80, 1/100, 1/125, etc. The smaller the decimal value, the slower the speed, the more light entering the camera, and the brighter the photo taken. 6. ** Aperture setting ** - The smaller the aperture value, the larger the aperture. The more light entered, the brighter the photo. The larger the aperture value, the smaller the aperture. The less light entered, the darker the photo. It was important to note that the aperture and aperture value were in inverse proportion. The value on the camera was the aperture value, and the result after the adjustment was the aperture. For example, a photo taken with an aperture value of 3 is brighter than a photo taken with an aperture value of 6. ** 2. Shooting Techniques ** 1. ** Composing Skills ** - Diagonal composition, triangular composition, and other methods could be used to make the picture more beautiful and stable. He could also try the full-body composition method. - When shooting, you can stagger the composition or capture the moment when the character walks by to create a picture-in-picture effect. 2. ** Basic principles of filming ** - To make the photo have a clear and distinct theme, whether it was a person, a still life, or an event, it needed to be clearly expressed to avoid ambiguity or all-encompassing. - A good photo must draw attention to the subject so that the audience could immediately notice the core of the photographer's intention. - It made the photo more concise and removed those elements that couldn't set off the subject or even distract attention. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Beginner photography competition
For newcomers to participate in photography competitions, they could consider the following aspects: ** 1. Evaluation of Competing Ability ** 1. ** Shooting Techniques ** - The photography competition mainly assessed the ability to shoot. Newbies needed to have certain shooting skills, such as mastering exposure knowledge. The strength of the light would greatly affect the performance of the photo. You couldn't just rely on the automatic exposure of the phone. You had to learn to use the exposure adjustment function on the screen. Otherwise, there might be problems such as a big black face, a big hole in the sun, or a flower color overflow. - The composition ability was also very important. You couldn't shoot immediately when you saw the beautiful scenery. You had to think about whether there was a better angle and better scenery. For example, when shooting rainbows, the addition of landscape would make the photo more unique, instead of just shooting at the sky. 2. ** Shooting Style ** - Newbies had to evaluate whether they had formed a unique shooting style. Knowing what type of photography you are good at, such as people, landscape, or animal photography, will help you determine whether you meet the requirements when choosing a competition. ** 2. Competition Requirements ** 1. ** Themed Requirement ** - Different competitions had different selection criteria and theme requirements. Some competitions had specific topics, while others had subcategories. For example, the iPhone Photography awards did not have a theme each year, but gave more than ten subcategories such as animals, children, landscapes, and people. The Mobile Photography awards had 18 categories, including architecture, landscape, silhouette, street photography, and so on. If the theme of the competition did not match his shooting style or content, it might affect his confidence and preparation for the competition. - He also had to pay attention to whether there was a limit on the number of works. 2. ** Nature of the work ** - For example, in news and documentary photography competitions, the post-production standard was that the objective reality could not be changed. For example, adding clouds and copying horses were not allowed. However, general photography competitions allowed different levels of post-production. For example, mobile Photography awards allowed the use of mobile applications for post-production editing. It was also allowed to add elements such as mosaic, mobile painting, digital art, and so on. ** 3. Purpose of Competition ** 1. ** Challenge yourself ** - For beginners, participating in photography competitions was a way to challenge themselves. They could encourage themselves to try new photography techniques, styles, and subjects, thereby improving their photography skills. 2. ** Communication and learning ** - The participants could learn about the works and styles of other photographers and gain experience in the field of photography. Through observing outstanding works, one could learn other people's composition, lighting, post-processing techniques, and so on. 3. ** Promotion of himself and his works ** - If one wanted to gain more attention in the field of photography, participating in competitions was one way, but newcomers might need to gradually accumulate experience and the quality of their work. ** 4. Competition Selection and Identification ** 1. ** The value of the competition ** - ** Charging and free **: Charging photography competitions may not be good competitions, but they may be more valuable. For example, the iPhone photography competition charged 5.50 dollars per photo. The more photos submitted, the higher the fee. The judges were of a higher level, the competition process was formal, the awards were highly recognized, and the prizes were relatively generous. However, there were also unscrupulous commercial competitions that used the name of charging fees to engage in "black box operations" and spend money to buy "certificates." Free competitions were not necessarily without value. For example, the WPG (World Press Photographer Competition) was the most influential in the international press photography industry. It was open to photographers in the field of news photography and documentary photography for free. - [Competition Level: Generally speaking, international competitions are more important than national competitions.] However, local competitions had fewer participants and were less competitive, so it might be easier to get a ranking. 2. ** Regular Judgment ** - Whether the competition was official or not could be judged by the popularity of the competition, the number of years it had been held, the qualifications of the organizers, and the judges. It was best to participate in some new and unknown "wild competitions" with caution. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
What kind of lens should I use for food photography?
Food photography can be done with a variety of lenses. Here are some common choices: - macro lens: For example, a 90mm,f/2.8 macro lens was suitable for shooting details and close-ups of food. It could show the subtleties of food very well. - Standard lens: For example, the PE 50mm,f/1.8 lens can be used to capture the overall effect of food. When you need to capture more scenes such as desks, it can be used to expand the scope of the photo. - Zooming lens: For example, the R - 24 - 70 lens of the Sony1 (if you have a budget), or the 24 - 70 lens of the Sony1 for a lower budget, or the 24 - 70 lens of the Sigma2 for a lower budget. If you use your phone to shoot, you can turn on the phone's 2x portrait mode lens to shoot the food. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>