Here are some creative photography methods for telephoto lenses: 1. * * Space compression creativity **: The telephoto lens can compress the space and zoom in on the distant and mid-range scenes. When shooting, pay attention to matching with the distant and mid-range scenes. It can create a photo with a strong impact. For example, when shooting a scene, he could use this spatial compression feature to make the scene appear unique. 2. * * creative composition **: The narrow angle of the telephoto lens will bring a sense of oppression, which will help filter out unnecessary scenes and prompt you to think about the best shooting scene, especially in terms of composition. You can find inspiration for composition from Chinese paintings. In Chinese paintings, the layout consciousness of enlarging the distant and middle scenes is similar to the effect of compressing the space of the telephoto lens. The characteristics of the telephoto lens are perfectly combined with the space to take creative photos. 3. * * Imaginative Creation **: The telephoto lens has a short depth of field, which is more conducive to realistic performance. This feature can be used to create a clear subject and blurred background effect when shooting portraits and other subjects, increasing the artistic sense of the photo. 4. * * Different main body shooting creativity ** - * * Moon Shooting **: When shooting the moon, you can take creative shots according to the characteristics of the moon at different times (such as full moon, waning moon, full moon, new moon, blue moon, blood moon, etc.). For example, when the sun was setting, the full moon could be captured rising from the horizon, and different forms of the moon such as the waning moon and the full moon could be photographed to show their uniqueness. At the same time, he had to pay attention to the time and location of the shooting. He had to consider the surrounding environment, weather, and other factors. He could also use a medium gray filter to adjust the light ratio of the picture. - * * Shooting buildings **: When shooting architectural subjects such as ancient buildings, the telephoto lens can reduce perspective distortion and more faithfully reproduce the actual size and shape of the object. The feature of the telephoto lens could be used to capture parts or the whole building from a unique angle, showing the details and unique architectural style of the building. - * * Shooting people and animals **: When shooting people and animals, the telephoto ability of the telephoto lens can record natural behaviors or moments without disturbing the subject. It could capture the expressions, movements, or habits of animals in a natural state to create a natural and realistic image. - * * Scenery Shooting **: In landscape photography, the background compression and shallow depth of field effect of the telephoto lens are used to highlight the main elements in the picture, simplify the background, and create a unique atmosphere and visual focus. For example, when shooting a mountain range, focus on a certain mountain peak, so that the mountains in front and behind are compressed in the picture, enhancing the layering and visual impact of the picture. Read more exciting novels for free
Here are some photography techniques for using the Tenglong lens: ** I. The application of lenses with different focal lengths ** 1. ** Portrait photography ** - For Tenglong 17 - 50mm and 35 - 150mm lenses, it can be used for portrait shooting. When shooting indoors and outdoors, you should pay attention to choosing the appropriate focal length. For example, the focal length of 35 - 150mm can meet most of the focal length requirements of portrait photography. Using a large aperture can get a better background blurring effect and highlight the main body of the character. - When shooting a portrait with a 28 - 75mm F2.8 lens, you can choose a focal length of about 50mm-85mm according to the character interaction scene. This will ensure the stability of the picture and create a suitable sense of distance. 2. ** macro photography (like Tenglong 90mm f/2.8)** - When shooting small objects such as wildflowers, the depth of field is usually small. This feature can be used to shoot soft and ethereal effects, such as focusing on the stamen or dewdrops. - In terms of aperture selection, it was not recommended to use f/16. Shooting with an aperture of around f/2.8 to f/5.6 could produce a larger bokeh and highlight the details of the subject. When shooting large scenes, it could be lowered to f/8 or f/16 to increase the depth of field. - When focusing, it was best to use the "manual focus" mode. With the help of the real-time display function, the subject was magnified by 5 - 10 times to check if the focus area was clear and make adjustments. At the same time, the subject had to be completely still (such as choosing to shoot wildflowers when there was no wind). 3. ** Shooting toy (Tenglong 28 - 75mm F2.8)** - It covered the focal length from wide-angle to medium-focal length, had a constant large aperture, and had the characteristics of wide-angle close-up. For the character interaction scene, the standard to medium focal length shooting was used. When shooting toys outdoors, the principle of "fill light first" was followed, and the human face and special props were filled with light. - When taking close-up shots of toys, you can use its wide-angle close-up ability to create a sense of oppression. However, due to the small proportion of the toy, you may need to properly close the aperture to ensure that the depth of field is not too shallow. The wide-angle close-up shot can close the distance between the subject and the audience. ** 2. Techniques related to aperture and blurring effects ** 1. The aperture size of the Soaring Dragon lens would affect the blurring effect. Generally speaking, the larger the aperture (the smaller the F value), the stronger the blurring effect. For example, when using the Tenglong lens, the aperture of a 28 - 75mm lens could be opened to F2.8 to produce a certain blurring effect, which was used to highlight the main body and weaken the background. 2. The blurring effect was controlled by combining the focal length, the distance between the subject and the lens, and the distance between the subject and the background. With a long focal length, the distance between the lens and the subject was close, and the distance between the subject and the background was far, the blurring effect was stronger. For example, when shooting with a telephoto lens, in addition to a stronger background blurring effect, it could also bring a narrower angle of view and enhance the atmosphere. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
In portrait photography, 50mm and 85mm fixed-focus lenses were more commonly used. The 50mm fixed-focus lens was suitable for a variety of scenes, such as indoor portrait shooting. Its focal length could cope with most scenes, and it could give the audience a sense of immersion in cultural photography. It could also blur the background to highlight the main body and simplify the composition. It was relatively cost-effective. However, its composition was difficult to impress. The 85mm lens was suitable for portrait shooting in a large environment. The angle of view was about 28 degrees. With a large aperture, the background could be simplified and the character could be highlighted. The background blurring effect was better. The distance from the full-body shot to the close-up was about 1.5 meters to 5 meters, which could maintain a more comfortable shooting distance. The image quality was the ceiling of the image quality of various lenses in many cases. However, its angle of view was fixed. If the shooting distance and angle were not controlled well, the image would lack variation, which would easily lead to aesthetic fatigue. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
There were many options for fixed-focus lenses commonly used in macro photography. For example, the Nikon AF-S VR macro Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED, which came with a quiet wave motor and anti-shake system, cost 5799 yuan. There was also the Old Frog FF 100mm F2.8ca- Dreamer Macro 2X (Canon EF mount). Sima also had a few fixed-focus lenses suitable for macro photography, such as the world's first telephoto macro lens with APO design, the APO Marco 180mm F2.8, launched in 1989. Later, the APO Marco 180mm F3.5IF EXs (HSM) and its digital single-lens reflex optimized version (DG) were launched. The APO Marco 180mm F2.8 EXDG OS, launched in 2012, was a combination of many advantages. In addition, Sima also had the APO Marco 150mm F2.8EX DG OS HPM, which weighed about 1.15Kg. In 2006, it was launched as a 70mm F2.8EXDG lens for macro photography. When choosing a fixed-focus lens for macro photography, factors such as magnification, focal length, minimum focusing distance, weight, size, and price needed to be considered. The magnification of the macro lens must be at least 1:1 or above to have a better macro shooting effect. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Tilt-shift photography, also known as tilt-shift photography, was a photography method that used a shift-shift lens to create a work. The characteristics of shift-lens photography were closely related to the characteristics of shift-lens. The most notable feature of the shift-axis lens was that it could shift, tilt, or rotate the main optical axis of the entire photographic lens while maintaining the position of the camera body and the film plane, thereby adjusting the perspective relationship of the photographed image or achieving full-area focusing. The reference clear image field was larger to ensure that the main optical axis of the lens could still obtain a clear image. It was also known as the "TS" lens ("TS" is the English "tilt and shift"),"oblique lens","shift lens" and so on. The main functions of shift-lens photography were as follows: 1. Correct perspective distortion: Reflect clearly in architectural photography. For example, when using a wide-angle focal length lens to shoot the shape of a building, the lines of the building's shape would converge upward due to the perspective effect of the near and far. However, when using a shift-axis lens to shoot, it could rely on its perspective adjustment function to correct this line convergence phenomenon, so that the building remained vertical in the picture, avoiding the feeling of tilting or even tilting. 2. [Realization of regional focus: Commonly used in commercial photography for product advertisements.] By combining the pan and tilt shooting functions of the lens, while correcting the perspective distortion of the subject, it can achieve a full-area focusing effect that is difficult to achieve with ordinary photographic lenses, so that the subject near and far in the picture can form a clear image. The photos and videos taken by the shift-lens photography were like miniature models, which could fully express the feeling of a "man-made city", which was unique and interesting. After using the shift-axis photographic lens on the 35mm single-lens reflex camera, it could be equipped with the function of a large-scale combined camera to control the perspective by adjusting the leather cavity, thus expanding the scope of use of this camera. It played a major role in the field of professional photography. For example, Canon's 135mm system's original, most widely used shift-axis lens, the ts-e 17mm4L, was regarded as an artifact. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
The lens halo was a common phenomenon in photography. It was caused by the lens group consisting of multiple lenses. Although the lens had high penetration, there was reflection and scattering. The light rays that did not maintain the same direction as the incident light formed a halo, and the internal reflection and scattering of the lens were the main reasons. ** 1. The factors that affect the formation of lens halos ** 1. ** Shot structure ** - The more complicated the lens structure, the more halos appeared in the image. 2. ** Focus ** - Wide-angle lenses could deal with halos better because a short focal length would make the light source look small. Telephoto lenses performed poorly and needed to be equipped with a longer hood because telephoto lenses would magnify the picture elements. 3. ** Film coating ** - Different brands of lens coating technology were different, such as Canon's NAC coating, Nikon's NCC coating, Fuji's SuperEBG coating, Zeiss 'T* coating, Pentax's Smc coating technology, etc. Multi-layer coating lens components had a greater impact on the lens halo. 4. ** Color filter quality ** - Poor quality filter would cause more light spots and ghosting in the image, which would affect the lens flare. 5. ** Dust on the lens ** - Dust inside the lens would cause more lens halos, and all lenses would accumulate dust. ** 2. Ways to avoid lens flare ** 1. ** Use the hood ** - Most lenses would be equipped with a hood, which could prevent light from shining directly on the front mirror of the lens, effectively avoiding glare, and also protect the lens in the event of a slight impact. Petal shaped lens hoods usually had a better effect than non-petal (round) lens hoods because the petal hood took into account the aspect ratio of the camera film or digital sensor. 2. ** Cover ** - When shooting, use leaves, buildings, or body parts of the character (such as the head, shoulders, etc.) to block some direct light. You can also put your hand on the lens to block the sunlight (the hand forms a "C" shape and adjust the angle until the halo disappears, but be careful not to block the lens). 3. ** Use a fixed-focus lens instead of a zoom lens ** - The structure of a fixed-focus lens was simpler than a zoom lens. There were fewer optical components and less lens halos in the image. The structure of the zoom lens was complicated. The hood could not block all stray light at all focal lengths. There were more reflective inner surfaces inside, which made it easier for the lens to glow. 4. ** Changing the angle of the camera ** - Changing the shooting angle could change the position of the light source in the lens to prevent direct sunlight from entering the lens and eliminate the lens halo. It could also be recomposed to block the light source from the elements in the picture. If the halo was strong when it was backlit, the halo would be weaker when it was changed to side backlit. ** 3. Techniques of Using the Halo of the Shot ** 1. ** Change the angle of the sun to shoot ** - When taking photos with a lens halo, you can move the shooting position left and right to block the light from the target or part of the object. If the sun was behind the subject, the subject would be more attractive under the glow of the lens. 2. ** Shooting with a zoom lens and hood removed ** - To highlight the lens halo effect, you can use a zoom lens and a wide-angle lens instead of a fixed-focus lens. 3. ** Confirm and plan the position of the lens flare in the image ** - Because the lens halo might make the photo beautiful in some corners of the picture, but not necessarily in other positions, it was necessary to outline the shooting angle and the angle of the light to take an interesting photo. 4. ** Create the required light source ** - If you can't find an ideal light source, you can create it with photography methods, such as lamps, light bulbs, studio lights, or flashes. 5. ** Find the right time to shoot ** - Light at different times had different characteristics. The light in the morning was softer. Understanding the characteristics of natural light could make interesting photos. Light at different times could bring different emotions to the image. 6. ** Backlight Shooting ** - In order to have a lens halo, the image was shot using backlighting photography, such as backlighting to create an edge light or silhouette image. 7. ** Try to move the corner to adjust the light reflection ** - Moving the corner to adjust the amount of light reflection can get the reflected light that is suitable for the image content, such as water reflection or light passing through the bridge hole. Backlight photography may require manual focus because the camera will capture areas with darker light sources. 8. ** Try different apertures ** - When adjusting the aperture, the reflected light will produce different effects. Try different apertures to get the desired effect. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Here are some tips on how to use DSLR cameras for photography homework: ** 1. The camera settings ** 1. ** Shooting Mode ** - Try to use manual mode. Manual mode allowed the photographer to precisely control the camera's parameters according to the specific shooting scene and needs, while automatic mode might not be able to meet some special shooting requirements. 2. ** White Balance Setting ** - If there was a color difference in the photo, it might be caused by the use of household light bulbs or the camera's default automatic white balance setting was inaccurate. In this case, you can try to set the white balance to daylight mode, or try to take a photo in all other white balance modes to compare which mode is closer to the actual color. 3. ** Setting of the sensitivity ** - For example, the higher the value, the brighter the photo, but at the same time, the more likely it was to have noise. It needed to be adjusted together with other values (such as aperture, shutter speed, etc.). For example, for a small object, you can set it to 200, and for a large object, you can set it to 400. 4. ** Exposing settings ** - The exposure value was displayed as-0.7,-0.3, 0, 0.3, 0.7, 1, etc. The higher the value, the brighter the photo. You can set the exposure value to 0.3 during the test shoot. 5. ** Shutter Speed Setting ** - Shutter speeds such as 1/60, 1/80, 1/100, 1/125, etc. The smaller the decimal value, the slower the speed, the more light entering the camera, and the brighter the photo taken. 6. ** Aperture setting ** - The smaller the aperture value, the larger the aperture. The more light entered, the brighter the photo. The larger the aperture value, the smaller the aperture. The less light entered, the darker the photo. It was important to note that the aperture and aperture value were in inverse proportion. The value on the camera was the aperture value, and the result after the adjustment was the aperture. For example, a photo taken with an aperture value of 3 is brighter than a photo taken with an aperture value of 6. ** 2. Shooting Techniques ** 1. ** Composing Skills ** - Diagonal composition, triangular composition, and other methods could be used to make the picture more beautiful and stable. He could also try the full-body composition method. - When shooting, you can stagger the composition or capture the moment when the character walks by to create a picture-in-picture effect. 2. ** Basic principles of filming ** - To make the photo have a clear and distinct theme, whether it was a person, a still life, or an event, it needed to be clearly expressed to avoid ambiguity or all-encompassing. - A good photo must draw attention to the subject so that the audience could immediately notice the core of the photographer's intention. - It made the photo more concise and removed those elements that couldn't set off the subject or even distract attention. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
There were many types of Canon DSLR lenses for character photography. Among them, the 35mm f1.4 lens had excellent performance in portrait shooting. It could capture the delicate expression of the character and show the surrounding environment. The f1.4 large aperture background blurring effect was good, suitable for traveling portraits or indoor portraits. The 85mm f1.2 medium-focus lens could capture the details and expressions of the characters while maintaining a certain distance on the full frame. The picture was natural and realistic. The f1.2 large aperture allowed it to take bright and clear photos in low-light environments. The blurring effect was better than that of the 35mm f1.4 lens. The 70 - 200mm f2.8 telephoto zoom lens had a flexible focal length range, and the background blurring effect was better than the 35mm and 85mm lenses. It was suitable for long-distance shots such as stage portraits, athletes, concerts, etc., but indoor shooting required a large space. The EF100mm F2.8L IS USM lens could be used for macro and portrait shooting. It had double IS optical image stabilization, good sharpness and out-of-focus performance, and ideal autofocus speed for macro shooting. The ESF135mm F2LIS USM lens was a close-up shot of a portrait. It could bring a stronger sense of compression and better blurring effect. The focusing speed was fast, the lens body weighed 750g, and the image quality was excellent when the aperture was fully opened. It was sharp inside the focus and soft outside the focus. The 50mm fixed-focus lens was also commonly used for portrait shooting. The F1.2 lens with a large aperture had a better portrait shooting effect. The 50mm focal length belonged to the standard focal length, and the shooting effect was close to what the human eye could see. It would not cause space compression and could better express the surrounding environment of the subject. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
In the case of indoors, due to the influence of space and environmental light, lenses with relatively short focal lengths were generally selected, such as 35mm, 50mm, or 16 - 35, 24 - 70 medium and short focal lengths. Aperture was very important when shooting indoors. Since the indoor light was not as bright as the outdoor light, a large aperture was essential to ensure that the lens had a good amount of light. Due to the focal length, the short focal length lens had a relatively weak ability to compress space and blur the background during shooting. A large aperture could also have a better ability to blur the background when the focal length was short. Generally, the aperture of the fixed-focus lens could be made larger, and the sharpness was also higher than that of the zoom lens. Therefore, the fixed-focus lens was generally used for indoor portrait shooting, but this also varied from person to person. Generally, photography agencies would use fixed-focus lenses to ensure high sharpness and quality of the film. Generally, photography enthusiasts would use a 16 - 35 large three-dimensional lens. As long as they could guarantee the brightness when shooting, they could also get a good performance. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
If it was about DSLR photography, the following were some of the key points for DSLR photography: ** 1. Selection of shooting mode ** 1. ** Portrait Shooting ** - **A (Aperture priority mode)**: suitable for portrait shooting. In this mode, the aperture size could be adjusted manually. A large aperture (such as f/1.8, f/2.8, etc.) could make the background blur, highlight the main body of the character, and obtain a natural blurring effect. It could also increase the amount of light in the case of insufficient light. - **M file (full manual mode)**: Can be used for portrait photography. The photographer had to manually set the sensitivity, aperture, shutter speed, white balance, exposure compensation, focus, color temperature, and other parameters. This mode was suitable for taking portraits under complex lighting conditions, such as indoor lighting or scenes that used specific lighting to create a special atmosphere. 2. ** Shooting of moving objects ** - **S (Shutter priority mode)**: Adjusts the shutter speed. The faster the shutter speed, the more it can freeze the instant image of a moving object. It is suitable for capturing people, animals, or sports events in motion. 3. ** Scenery Shooting ** - **M (Full Manual Mode)**: It is very useful when shooting scenes such as sunrise, sunset, night scene, sea of clouds, starry sky, etc. For landscape photography, you can manually adjust the sensitivity, aperture, shutter speed, and other parameters according to the desired effect. For example, when shooting the starry sky, high sensitivity, large aperture, and slow shutter speed were needed (generally, a tripod was needed to keep the camera stable); when shooting sunrise and sunset, the parameters had to be adjusted according to the light intensity and the desired color effect. ** 2. Shooting Points ** 1. ** In terms of composition ** - ** Find a unique subject **: Choose a good-looking or oddly-shaped subject. This kind of subject will be easily remembered by the audience. - ** Use geometric composition **: For example, a triangular composition can make the picture full of geometric beauty. When shooting a picture that contained multiple elements, the elements could be arranged and combined to form a triangle to increase the stability and beauty of the picture. 2. ** Focus ** - Portrait and animal photography: If you are shooting portraits or animals, pay attention to the light in your eyes. This will make the subject more vivid. For animal photography, you can use methods such as feeding to get the animal to cooperate so that the eyes of the subject have a bright reflection. 3. ** Picture level ** - When shooting a scene, you can increase the layering of the picture by changing the angle of view. For example, lowering the angle of view, using the front and back arrangement of the characters or the changes in reality to create a sense of hierarchy. ** 3. Later adjustments ** Most of the photos taken by the DSLR camera were original photos. They couldn't completely restore the scenery seen by the human eye, so they needed to be retouched later. He could use the phone APP to adjust the light, shadow, contrast, saturation, atmosphere, color temperature, clarity, and other parameters of the photo to adjust the photo to his liking. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
The following lenses are suitable for landscape photography: 1. ** Wide-angle lens **: The focal length is between 24 - 35mm, and the 28mm focal length is more commonly used. This type of lens could highlight the prospects and enhance the sense of space in the picture. It was a common lens for landscape photography and could be considered when choosing a lens. 2. ** Ultra-wide angle lens **: With a focal length below 24mm, it can expand the shooting range, highlight the prospects, and shoot a strong visual impact. However, when using it, you need to pay attention to perspective distortion and backlighting glare. 3. ** Telephoto lens **: 70mm and above are considered telephoto lenses. Commonly seen are 70 - 200mm, 100 - 400mm, etc. This type of lens could compress space, making the front and background closer to each other, creating an artistic image. The telephoto lens could also blur the background with a large aperture. However, telephoto lenses were generally heavy, which could put a physical burden on outdoor shooting. 4. ** Large zoom lens (one lens takes the world)**: For example, the 18 - 200mm lens is suitable for daily life records. However, due to the large zoom ratio, the image quality is ordinary and not suitable for creative and commercial use. Its aperture is small, and the amount of light entering is small. It is difficult to shoot with a hand in a dim environment, and it is also difficult to shoot a dream-like effect. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>