How to match the lens for portrait photography
The configuration of a portrait camera lens required a comprehensive consideration of many factors. The following are some common lens configuration ideas: ** 1. Beginner Stage ** 1. ** 35mm or 50mm lens ** - These two focal points were good choices for beginners. If you were shooting scenes such as children at home, the 35mm lens could move freely. The 35mm focal length was between wide-angle and 50mm. It was suitable for shooting environmental portraits. It could clearly explain the characters and the surrounding environment. It was also a classic human lens focal length. It could also take into account scenery and skit shooting. Moreover, a large aperture could create a good blurring effect and atmosphere. - The 50mm lens was a good choice to understand and feel the fixed-focus lens. The 50mm F1.8 lens from various manufacturers was relatively cheap, allowing users to feel the charm of the fixed-focus lens, and it was relatively easy to use. It could be used to shoot close-up portraits, half-length portraits, and full-body portraits. It was more suitable for portrait composition practice. A large aperture could produce a beautiful background blurring effect. ** 2. Advanced Stage ** 1. ** 85mm fixed-focus lens ** - This focal length was considered one of the most suitable lenses for portrait photography. Its focal length would not distort the portrait, and it could show the outline and details of the character very well. At the same time, its aperture was relatively large, which could produce a shallow depth of field effect, making the character more prominent. It was very suitable for shooting half-length portraits or portraits. 2. ** 135mm fixed-focus lens ** - The 135mm focal length was relatively long. With a large aperture, it could bring a better sense of compression and background blurring effect. It could better separate the character from the background and highlight the main body of the person. It was very suitable for close-up shots. However, apart from portrait shooting, these two focal lengths were more limited and less flexible for shooting other subjects. ** 3. Pursuing the stage of convenience and multi-scene consideration ** 1. **70 - 200mm telephoto lens ** - Although it was not a pure portrait lens, it was used more often in portrait photography. Its advantage lay in the zooming function, which could zoom in on people and scenes in the distance. Together with the large aperture, it could give people a sense of space compression, making the picture compact and full, emphasizing the main body of the character. It could also create a portrait atmosphere through the blurring of the front and background. However, for beginners, it was more expensive and heavy. It was a test of their ability to carry it when they went out to shoot. In short, when choosing a lens, one needed to consider factors such as the scene, their own shooting level, and budget. Different lenses had different characteristics and advantages, and a reasonable combination could make the portrait work more outstanding. Read more exciting novels for free
Movie lens for portrait photography
There were many options and considerations for using a movie lens in portrait photography. Some movie shots had unique advantages in portrait shooting. For example, the 25mm, 85mm, and 35mm lenses in NiSi's new Athena film lens set (all with a T value of 1.9) could be used for portrait shooting. The barrel distortion of the 25mm lens could make the face look thinner in specific scenes; the 35mm lens was similar to the life perspective, and it was more touching when used for life slicing. With the 85mm lens, it could create a movie feel. The SKR Magic CINE 25mm T1.5 film fixed-focus lens could also be used for portrait shooting. It was compact and small, only 685 grams. The all-metal mirror body was suitable for complex shooting environments. Its 25mm focal length was equivalent to 50mm with an M4/3 frame camera. It could be used for portrait, architectural, and landscape shooting. Moreover, the unique infinite aperture of the film lens could accurately control the image exposure. The infinite focusing ring design made the focus without breathing effect during shooting, and the focus felt smooth. Different focal lengths would produce different effects. In portrait photography, one had to consider the relationship between the body and focal length, color reproduction, image imaging style, and other factors to choose the appropriate film lens. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Professional photography portrait lens
There were many options for professional photography. The following were some common ones: - ** 35mm lens **: This is an environmental portrait lens between the wide-angle and 50mm standard focal length. Its advantage was that it could accommodate the characters and the surrounding environment well in the picture, and it could make the story feel good. It was easier to take full-body photos, and it could even shoot long legs. It was also easy to communicate with the subject at close range. However, it might not be suitable for close-up shots when sweeping the streets and taking photos of unfamiliar girls. It was suitable for shooting scenes such as children at home. The 35mm lenses from sub-factories such as Tenglong and Sigma were relatively cost-effective. - ** 50mm lens **: If the budget is not high and you are a beginner, you can consider this lens. The 50mmF1.8 was a relatively cheap large circle focal point. It was easy to shoot the background blurring effect, but it was difficult to use it well. This focal length could only be used to shoot half of the body indoors, but it was more convenient outdoors. It could be used to practice composition, and it could be used to shoot both half and full-body portraits. - ** 85mm lens **: This was the focal length of a classic portrait lens. Its perspective relationship could obtain a cream-like out-of-focus effect, close to the human eye's vision with almost no distortion. It was suitable for shooting close-up portraits, such as half-body portraits or headshots. It could also shoot full-body portraits if it was retreated appropriately, but the indoor full-body portrait distance required was more than 5 meters. They didn't pursue extreme sharpness and resolution, but retained aberrations to achieve delicate transition of skin tone details and beauty outside of focus. The 85mm lenses of various manufacturers were specially optimized for shooting portraits, but the price was usually higher. - ** 135mm lens **: This is a close-up shot of a person. In theory, it can bring a stronger sense of compression and better blurring effect. It is called a small air cutter, which can separate the person from the background very well. However, the usage rate was relatively low. It was rarely used for other subjects except portraits, and it was easily replaced by 70 - 200mm lenses. - **70 - 200mm lens **: It is also an option for portrait photography. In addition, a standard portrait photography lens usually referred to a lens that took a person at a distance of 1.5m -2m, corresponding to a focal length of 70mm-135mm. According to general aesthetics, the facial features of the person at this distance were more beautiful. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
How to match the lens of landscape photography
As for the lens configuration of landscape photography, there are the following suggestions: - ** Wide-angle lens **: A lens with a focal length between 24 - 35mm is commonly used for landscape photography, especially for the 28mm focal length. This focal length could highlight the background and enhance the sense of space in the picture. The ultra-wide-angle lens with a focal length of 24mm or less could expand the shooting range, highlight the prospects, and shoot a picture with a strong visual impact. However, one had to pay attention to the perspective distortion and backlighting glare. - ** Telephoto lens **: Lenses with a focal length of 70mm and above belong to the scope of telephoto lenses. Common ones include 70 - 200mm, 100 - 400mm, etc. This type of lens could compress the space, making the background and the background closer to each other, creating an artistic image. The telephoto lens with a large aperture could produce the ideal blurred background effect, but the telephoto lens was generally heavier. - ** Comprehensive suggestion **: It is recommended to bring a 20 - 35mm lens and a 70 - 200mm or 70 - 300mm lens. You can also bring a 100mm lens for shooting macro subjects such as flowers and insects. Ultra-wide angle, ultra-long focal length, and fisheye lenses had their own functions and characteristics in landscape photography, but they could only be used in specific situations. They could be purchased and used selectively according to shooting habits. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
The most commonly used lens in portrait photography
In portrait photography, different focal lengths had their own characteristics and uses. It was difficult to determine which lens was used the most. However, the following shots were more commonly used in portrait photography: - ** 35mm and 50mm lenses **: These two focal lengths are more commonly used for home or novice portraits. The 35mm lens was an environmental portrait lens that was between wide-angle and 50mm standard focal length. It could accommodate people and the surrounding environment well in the picture. It could be used to take full-body photos, suitable for expressing the surrounding environment of the subject, shooting a sense of story, and also convenient for communication with the subject. It was suitable for shooting children or cultural photography scenes. The 50mmF1.8 lens was a relatively cheap large-aperture focal point, which was easy to produce the effect of blurring the background. It was suitable for beginners to practice composition, and it could shoot half-body and full-body portraits. - ** 85mm and 135mm lenses **: These two focal lengths are usually regarded as professional portrait lenses. The angle of view of the 85mm lens was 28 degrees, and the background blurring effect was good. It could simplify the background and highlight the character. The distance from the full-body shot to the close-up was about 1.5 meters to 5 meters. The image quality was good, suitable for shooting half-length portraits or close-ups. It could get a cream-like out-of-focus effect. The 135mm lens was a close-up shot of a portrait, which could bring a stronger sense of compression and better blurring effects. It could separate the character from the background very well. - **70 - 200mm lens **: This focal length lens is used more for the convenience of composition. It can zoom in on people and objects in the distance without moving your feet, strongly compressing the space, making the picture concise and full. It can blur the background and background to highlight the main body. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
What kind of lens is used for outdoor portrait photography?
There are many lenses available for outdoor portrait photography. Here are some recommendations: - ** Telephoto lens **: - ** Special features and advantages **: Generally, the focal length is above 100mm, and the image has the feature of "space compression", which can compress the depth of field and enlarge the distance, so that the elements of the picture are tightly combined, making the scene and people feel "not far away". The picture is compact and full. At the same time, it had a very strong background blurring ability, and the perspective distortion was small. The character was close to the edge of the screen and it was not easy for the face to be distorted. For example, the AF-S Nikkor 105mm f/1.4ED lens with a medium telephoto and large aperture could use the background blurring brought by the large aperture and medium telephoto to highlight the main body of the character, making the picture more three-dimensional. However, the telephoto lens may lack a sense of space and perspective, so it is necessary to choose a suitable background, such as using a guide line (road, bridge, etc.) to extend the image to increase the depth of the image, or using backlighting and side lighting to create a three-dimensional sense of the character. - [** Scenarios **: It is suitable for blurring the background, emphasizing the main body of the character, and changing the spatial relationship of the scene.] - **17 - 40 lens **: Low price, moderate performance, suitable for portrait shooting in large scenes. The maximum aperture of 4 was enough for outdoor use. Although it had the disadvantage of serious distortion, it was more worry-free when shooting large scenes, such as wedding photos at the beach. When using 17-dan, the character must be placed in the center to reduce the influence of distortion. - **85 - 1.2 lens **: The performance is almost perfect. It is highly recommended for outdoor portraits. It is used more often when shooting messy environments and partial portraits. Even with a 1.2 aperture, there was almost no false focus. However, it was more expensive, and because it was a fixed-focus lens, it needed to be moved to adjust the focal length. - **24 - 70/2.8 lens **: Aperture of 2.8 and focal length of 24 - 70. It can meet the needs of most scenes and is used more frequently. - **70 - 200/2.8 lens **: Can be used as a "lazy artifact". It is more suitable for shooting weddings and meetings when the requirements for portrait shooting are not particularly high. It was easy to zoom, and it could avoid shooting through someone else's lens. - **50 - 1.8 lens **: Cheap, suitable for beginners. Although there were drawbacks of occasionally running out of focus and plastic texture, the plastic texture could be ignored after the aperture was set to 2.8. The blurring effect was better, and it was practical to put it on a full-frame machine. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
The most commonly used fixed-focus lens in portrait photography
In portrait photography, 50mm and 85mm fixed-focus lenses were more commonly used. The 50mm fixed-focus lens was suitable for a variety of scenes, such as indoor portrait shooting. Its focal length could cope with most scenes, and it could give the audience a sense of immersion in cultural photography. It could also blur the background to highlight the main body and simplify the composition. It was relatively cost-effective. However, its composition was difficult to impress. The 85mm lens was suitable for portrait shooting in a large environment. The angle of view was about 28 degrees. With a large aperture, the background could be simplified and the character could be highlighted. The background blurring effect was better. The distance from the full-body shot to the close-up was about 1.5 meters to 5 meters, which could maintain a more comfortable shooting distance. The image quality was the ceiling of the image quality of various lenses in many cases. However, its angle of view was fixed. If the shooting distance and angle were not controlled well, the image would lack variation, which would easily lead to aesthetic fatigue. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
What kind of lens should I use for indoor portrait photography?
Impressionist photography lens
Impressionism photography originated from the Impressionism painting. In the early days, Impressionists used soft focus lenses to obtain soft and hazy images, which was a manifestation of the use of impressionist photography lenses. In modern impressionist photography, ordinary lenses could be used to create an impressionist style through some shooting techniques. For example, when using the lens, use the defocus method to pull the lens out of focus, use the aperture priority mode, and set the lens to the largest aperture.(Small numbers, such as f/2.4 or f/4) to obtain a very shallow depth of field, then switch to manual focus and turn the focus ring until the picture is blurred. By changing the focus of the same scene, you can find the degree of blurring that is suitable for the subject. You can also use the zoom lens to perform zooming and zooming continuous shooting or zooming blurring operations. When shooting, you can change the focal length of the lens (zooming in or out), so that the lens is blurred from the center to the outside, creating an impressionistic photography effect. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
lens flare photography
The lens halo was a common phenomenon in photography. It was caused by the lens group consisting of multiple lenses. Although the lens had high penetration, there was reflection and scattering. The light rays that did not maintain the same direction as the incident light formed a halo, and the internal reflection and scattering of the lens were the main reasons. ** 1. The factors that affect the formation of lens halos ** 1. ** Shot structure ** - The more complicated the lens structure, the more halos appeared in the image. 2. ** Focus ** - Wide-angle lenses could deal with halos better because a short focal length would make the light source look small. Telephoto lenses performed poorly and needed to be equipped with a longer hood because telephoto lenses would magnify the picture elements. 3. ** Film coating ** - Different brands of lens coating technology were different, such as Canon's NAC coating, Nikon's NCC coating, Fuji's SuperEBG coating, Zeiss 'T* coating, Pentax's Smc coating technology, etc. Multi-layer coating lens components had a greater impact on the lens halo. 4. ** Color filter quality ** - Poor quality filter would cause more light spots and ghosting in the image, which would affect the lens flare. 5. ** Dust on the lens ** - Dust inside the lens would cause more lens halos, and all lenses would accumulate dust. ** 2. Ways to avoid lens flare ** 1. ** Use the hood ** - Most lenses would be equipped with a hood, which could prevent light from shining directly on the front mirror of the lens, effectively avoiding glare, and also protect the lens in the event of a slight impact. Petal shaped lens hoods usually had a better effect than non-petal (round) lens hoods because the petal hood took into account the aspect ratio of the camera film or digital sensor. 2. ** Cover ** - When shooting, use leaves, buildings, or body parts of the character (such as the head, shoulders, etc.) to block some direct light. You can also put your hand on the lens to block the sunlight (the hand forms a "C" shape and adjust the angle until the halo disappears, but be careful not to block the lens). 3. ** Use a fixed-focus lens instead of a zoom lens ** - The structure of a fixed-focus lens was simpler than a zoom lens. There were fewer optical components and less lens halos in the image. The structure of the zoom lens was complicated. The hood could not block all stray light at all focal lengths. There were more reflective inner surfaces inside, which made it easier for the lens to glow. 4. ** Changing the angle of the camera ** - Changing the shooting angle could change the position of the light source in the lens to prevent direct sunlight from entering the lens and eliminate the lens halo. It could also be recomposed to block the light source from the elements in the picture. If the halo was strong when it was backlit, the halo would be weaker when it was changed to side backlit. ** 3. Techniques of Using the Halo of the Shot ** 1. ** Change the angle of the sun to shoot ** - When taking photos with a lens halo, you can move the shooting position left and right to block the light from the target or part of the object. If the sun was behind the subject, the subject would be more attractive under the glow of the lens. 2. ** Shooting with a zoom lens and hood removed ** - To highlight the lens halo effect, you can use a zoom lens and a wide-angle lens instead of a fixed-focus lens. 3. ** Confirm and plan the position of the lens flare in the image ** - Because the lens halo might make the photo beautiful in some corners of the picture, but not necessarily in other positions, it was necessary to outline the shooting angle and the angle of the light to take an interesting photo. 4. ** Create the required light source ** - If you can't find an ideal light source, you can create it with photography methods, such as lamps, light bulbs, studio lights, or flashes. 5. ** Find the right time to shoot ** - Light at different times had different characteristics. The light in the morning was softer. Understanding the characteristics of natural light could make interesting photos. Light at different times could bring different emotions to the image. 6. ** Backlight Shooting ** - In order to have a lens halo, the image was shot using backlighting photography, such as backlighting to create an edge light or silhouette image. 7. ** Try to move the corner to adjust the light reflection ** - Moving the corner to adjust the amount of light reflection can get the reflected light that is suitable for the image content, such as water reflection or light passing through the bridge hole. Backlight photography may require manual focus because the camera will capture areas with darker light sources. 8. ** Try different apertures ** - When adjusting the aperture, the reflected light will produce different effects. Try different apertures to get the desired effect. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Shifting lens photography
Tilt-shift photography, also known as tilt-shift photography, was a photography method that used a shift-shift lens to create a work. The characteristics of shift-lens photography were closely related to the characteristics of shift-lens. The most notable feature of the shift-axis lens was that it could shift, tilt, or rotate the main optical axis of the entire photographic lens while maintaining the position of the camera body and the film plane, thereby adjusting the perspective relationship of the photographed image or achieving full-area focusing. The reference clear image field was larger to ensure that the main optical axis of the lens could still obtain a clear image. It was also known as the "TS" lens ("TS" is the English "tilt and shift"),"oblique lens","shift lens" and so on. The main functions of shift-lens photography were as follows: 1. Correct perspective distortion: Reflect clearly in architectural photography. For example, when using a wide-angle focal length lens to shoot the shape of a building, the lines of the building's shape would converge upward due to the perspective effect of the near and far. However, when using a shift-axis lens to shoot, it could rely on its perspective adjustment function to correct this line convergence phenomenon, so that the building remained vertical in the picture, avoiding the feeling of tilting or even tilting. 2. [Realization of regional focus: Commonly used in commercial photography for product advertisements.] By combining the pan and tilt shooting functions of the lens, while correcting the perspective distortion of the subject, it can achieve a full-area focusing effect that is difficult to achieve with ordinary photographic lenses, so that the subject near and far in the picture can form a clear image. The photos and videos taken by the shift-lens photography were like miniature models, which could fully express the feeling of a "man-made city", which was unique and interesting. After using the shift-axis photographic lens on the 35mm single-lens reflex camera, it could be equipped with the function of a large-scale combined camera to control the perspective by adjusting the leather cavity, thus expanding the scope of use of this camera. It played a major role in the field of professional photography. For example, Canon's 135mm system's original, most widely used shift-axis lens, the ts-e 17mm4L, was regarded as an artifact. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>