Substitutes for SewingSubstitutes for sewing are: sewing, connecting, sewing, quilting, etc. These words could express actions similar to sewing in different context, such as sewing, tying, quilting, and so on.
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Clothing Cutting and SewingClothing cutting and sewing is an important part of the clothing production process.
* * 1. Clothing Cutting **
1. * * Cutting Requirement **
- * * Cutting Order **: The order of cutting should be followed: no horizontal cut, then straight cut, first outer cut, then inner cut, first zero small material, then whole large material, and taking material section by section.
- * * Corner processing **: The corners of the garment should be cut with different knives on both sides of the corner. The corners cannot be cut continuously to ensure accuracy.
- * * Scissors Operation **: Keep the scissors vertical when cutting to avoid errors.
- * * Cutting requirements **: When cutting, the positioning must be accurate. The cutting must not exceed 3mm and must be clear and lasting.
2. * * Pre-cutting preparation-laying materials **
- * * Flatness of cloth surface **: The surface of each layer of material must be flat, without wrinkles or distortions, otherwise the clothes will be deformed, affecting the sewing and clothing quality.
- * * Cloth Edge Alignment **: When laying the material, the cloth edges of each layer should be aligned. The inner opening should be neat from top to bottom, and the difference should not exceed 2 mm, because the inner opening is the reference edge of the material layout. The other side should be naturally flat.
- * * Uniform and small tension **: In order to make the paving material flat, you can apply a uniform and small tension to prevent the internal stress from shrinking and wrinkling.
- * * Same direction **: Many materials have front and back sides or special directions, so they should be laid in the same direction.
- * * Pattern Alignment **: For materials with stripes, checks, patterns, and patterns, the patterns must be aligned according to the design requirements.
3. * * Terminology **
- * * Net sample **: The actual size of the garment, excluding the seam allowance, welt, and shrinking rate.
- * * Woolen Pattern **: Cutting size, including seam allowance, welt, shrink rate, etc.
- [Chop Force]: A straight-line deviation, like the deviation of the upper part of a shirt.
- * * Upset **: Upset (raise) of the horizontal line. For example, the upset of pants refers to the amount of elevation of the back waist seam at the back crotch seam.
- * * Trapping Force **: Straight-line deviation, such as trousers trapping force refers to the deviation of the upper end of the trousers at the side seam.
- * * Flapel **: Generally refers to the keyhole side of the garment.
- * * Inner lapel **: generally refers to the nail button edge of the garment.
- * * Cutting Edge (Knife Eye)**: Cut a small gap in a certain part of the cutting edge to serve as a positioning function.
- * * Drawing pattern **: A single drawing pattern refers to drawing a cutting line directly on the raw material according to the style and specifications.
- * * Pleats **: The parts that need to be folded or gathered according to the curves and shapes of the human body.
- The direction of the yarn of the fabric can be divided into straight, horizontal, and diagonal.
- * * Edge **: It refers to the back of the hem of the garment, which is not included in the total length.
- The three-dimensional shape of a certain part of a garment. It refers to the shape of the combination of clothing pieces or sample lines.
- * * Material arrangement **: Prepare and arrange the quota of materials.
- * * Seam **: refers to the front straight edge of the left and right clothes, generally refers to the edge of the clothing (sewing, folding).
- * * Pattern **: A piece of clothing that is drawn on the cut fabric (it is used to cut the fabric).
* * 2. Sewing and Laying-related content **
1. * * Nesting Points **
- * * Increase fabric utilization **: Layering is like putting together a jigsaw puzzle. Pay attention to the gaps between the pieces. The fewer gaps, the higher the fabric utilization. The key points include: straight line against the edge of the cloth, horizontal line against the latitude, inner arc against outer arc, concave surface against the concave surface, positive inclined against the reverse inclined.
- * * Patching principle of different fabrics **: When making a patch, if the inner fabric (such as patch, inner fabric, etc.) is missing, another material can be used to supplement it. If the outer fabric (such as back piece, cup surface, etc.) is missing, the same batch of fabric can only be used to supplement it.
2. * * Different methods of cloth spreading and material arrangement **
- * * Folded Rab **
- * * Weft Fold **: suitable for fabrics other than inverted wool, patterned fabrics, and lace. In the layout, the sample silk thread should be the same as the fabric silk thread. When encountering printed, patterned, and plaid fabric layout, pay attention to the main parts of the strip (pattern) and grid (wave), which is suitable for mass layout.
- * * Warp folding **: suitable for symmetrical lace, plaid and patterned fabrics, as well as inverted wool fabrics. The layout method is basically the same as the folding in the weft-direction, but when it comes to inverted wool fabric, it must be arranged in the same direction, suitable for single (set) layout.
- [Single-layer cloth: suitable for any fabric, not affected by the left and right sides of the style.] It can be divided into symmetrical layout (for example, the left and right parts of the finished underwear can be combined on the same layer of fabric) and symmetrical layout (for example, the symmetrical underwear can be arranged in a single layer, including the left and right sides of the cup are not symmetrical or one of them is folded, as well as the need for internal stitching).
3. * * The importance of nesting **
- Layering was the prerequisite for the auxiliary materials and cutting. Through the layout, one could know the exact length of the material and the precise order of the sample, so that the laying and cutting of the material had a basis, which directly affected the consumption of the fabric, the difficulty of cutting, and the quality of the garment. It was a very technical process.
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