The lens language of photography conception
The lens language was a very important element in the concept of photography. It refers to the use of various visual elements and techniques in photography (including visual media such as movies and television series) to convey stories, emotions, and topics. When it came to photography, the lens language could be used in many ways. The first was the choice of lens. Different lenses would produce different visual effects. For example, a medium-focal lens was closer to the image seen by the human eye and could give people a natural and flat feeling. On the other hand, wide-angle and telephoto lenses would bring an exaggerated perspective effect. However, some photographers avoided using such lenses in order to express the most realistic scene. The second was the angle of the camera. Different angles could show different characteristics and atmosphere of the subject. For example, shooting from a low angle might make the subject look tall and majestic, while shooting from a high angle might highlight the environment of the subject or make the subject look small. The movement of the camera was also part of the camera language. For example, when shooting a dynamic scene, the movement of the lens, such as pan, lift, and rotation, could guide the audience's line of sight, increase the dynamic sense of the picture, and help tell a story or express emotions. Moreover, although the use of light in some photographers (such as Bruno Babel) may be more "mediocre", in general photography concepts, light was a key factor in shaping the atmosphere of the picture, emphasizing the subject, and expressing the texture. Strong light could bring a sharp contrast and a strong visual impact, while soft light could create a calm and warm atmosphere. Finally, the composition of the picture also belonged to the scope of the camera language. Reasonably arranging the position of the subject in the picture and the relationship with the surrounding environment could make the picture more beautiful and expressive. For example, the characters were naturally integrated into the local cultural atmosphere and natural environment. The seemingly casual but very particular way of composition could convey a sense of harmony and reality. Through the comprehensive use of these lens languages, the photographer could express the world he saw in his work, convey emotions, stories, or topics. Read more exciting novels for free
Landscape photography lens
In landscape photography, different types of lenses had their own characteristics and uses. ** 1. Wide-angle lens ** 1. ** Specialties ** - It provides a wide field of vision and can include the entire landscape into the picture, from the front to the horizon. - With the widest depth of field, it can focus on the entire scenery, so that the front and back scenes of the subject can be clearly reproduced on the screen. - Distortion would magnify the objects in the background, showing close-up details, and emphasizing the guide lines, enhancing the dynamic of the composition. 2. ** Exemplary recommended shots ** - Nikon Z14 - 24mm F2.8S: An all-round upgrade. Its design and performance surpass the same type of lens with a single-lens reflex mount. It is no longer a big bulb design. Its size and weight are greatly reduced. It weighs only 650g. It comes with two disassembled hoods and a rear filter slot. It is excellent in glare, distortion, and dispersion control. - Canon RF15 - 35F2.8LIS USM: A super wide-angle lens with excellent image quality and optical performance. The wide-angle end is wider by 1mm, and the viewing angle is increased to 110°. It has a non-bulb structure design, 82 filter size, reduced cost, and a weight of 840g. It has good anti-glare performance. It is equipped with optical image stabilization to achieve 1/2 second hand-held shooting. - SIGMA16 - 28mm F2.8DG Continental: Picture quality comparable to Tamron 17 - 28mm F2.8, focal length 1mm wider than 17 - 28mm. - You could also consider a 16 - 35 wide-angle zoom lens. ** 2. Telephoto lens ** 1. ** Specialties ** - A narrow field of view, suitable for trimming excess elements and focusing on small but beautiful scenes, such as the curve of a mountain, the reflection of a pond in the distance, or the silhouette of a tree. - It could compress the space, making it easier to highlight the main body. It was easy to get started, and the composition was extremely flexible. It had the ability to make deductions. 2. ** Exemplary recommended shots ** - 70 - 200mm focal length: - Tenglong 70 - 200 (G2): Fast focusing speed, improved edge quality, brand new price 7490 yuan. - Sony users could choose the 70 - 180mm (A056) from Tenglong, priced at 6890 yuan. From the MTF curve, the sharpness of the 70mm end and 180mm end was close to the original 70 - 200GM. - Canon users with high cost-performance ratio could choose the White Rabbit EF70 - 200mm f/2.8L IS II USM (second generation), and the second-hand quality was more than 7000 yuan; those with weight requirements could choose the 70 - 200mm f/4L IS II USM; Canon non-reflective users could choose the lightweight RF70 - 200F4, and those who pursued higher directly chose the RF70 - 200F2.8. - Nikon users could choose to use the Electromagnetic Gun or the 70 - 200 Z-mount. - If the users didn't mind the focus and weight, the 70 - 200F2.8 first-generation model was very cost-effective. After the second-generation model was released, the first-generation model would have a small price reduction. The second-generation model was 29% lighter than the first-generation model and the difference in focus. - 100 - 400mm focal length: - The sub-factory's Sigma100 - 400 and Tenglong 100 - 400 could be selected. They were suitable for shooting birds when they were occasionally idle and lotus flowers during the lotus season. The Sigma100 - 400mm part of the sharpness for the Sony-compatible users was higher, but the focus was slow and the light was slightly weak. It could be used as a tourist attraction. The Nikon Z100 - 400mm F4.5 - 5.6 VR S had fast focusing speed and no shortcomings. It was the top lens of its type. The quality of the lens was good from the center to the edge. The anti-glare, dispersion control, and dark angle control were in place. It was suitable for shooting sunrise and sunset in landscape photography. It also had twice the effect with half the effort in broad scenes such as mountains and grasslands. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Reflex lens photography
The works shot with a reflective lens had a unique effect. For example, the wild cypress flowers in Northeast China shot by Nikon Z8 with NiSi 250mm F5.6 ReflexTF lens, as well as the peony flowers under the backlighting shot by this lens, presented a hazy, dreamy and gentle effect; peony flowers and barnyard grass could be covered with dewdrops, and the roadside flowers under the backlighting with the morning sun sprinkled on them were particularly dazzling; The picture of the path in the pear tree garden was taken through this lens with five multiple exposure shots. The picture was soft and transparent, with comfortable retro warm colors. It looked calm, clean, and more like an oil painting atmosphere. These works could display the unique haziness effect of the lens. When the point light source in the background or when there were dewdrops on the grass or ripples on the river under the backlighting, the highlights would form a charming ring-shaped defocused " donut ". The more highlights outside the depth of field, the brighter the donut effect would be. At the same time, it could also show the retro and unrestrained two-line effect. Its tone and color were unique, giving it a sense of oil painting and presenting an artistic two-line touch. The soft, retro oil painting's tones and shades gave off a dreamy effect. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Private photography lens
Generally, when taking private photos indoors, many photographers would choose 28mm and 35mm fixed-focus lenses for shooting because the distortion of the ultra-wide-angle lens was too serious. Among them, 28mm f1.4 was known as the best lens for shooting private photos. Its focal length was wide enough to achieve the blurring effect. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Impressionist photography lens
Impressionism photography originated from the Impressionism painting. In the early days, Impressionists used soft focus lenses to obtain soft and hazy images, which was a manifestation of the use of impressionist photography lenses. In modern impressionist photography, ordinary lenses could be used to create an impressionist style through some shooting techniques. For example, when using the lens, use the defocus method to pull the lens out of focus, use the aperture priority mode, and set the lens to the largest aperture.(Small numbers, such as f/2.4 or f/4) to obtain a very shallow depth of field, then switch to manual focus and turn the focus ring until the picture is blurred. By changing the focus of the same scene, you can find the degree of blurring that is suitable for the subject. You can also use the zoom lens to perform zooming and zooming continuous shooting or zooming blurring operations. When shooting, you can change the focal length of the lens (zooming in or out), so that the lens is blurred from the center to the outside, creating an impressionistic photography effect. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
lens flare photography
The lens halo was a common phenomenon in photography. It was caused by the lens group consisting of multiple lenses. Although the lens had high penetration, there was reflection and scattering. The light rays that did not maintain the same direction as the incident light formed a halo, and the internal reflection and scattering of the lens were the main reasons. ** 1. The factors that affect the formation of lens halos ** 1. ** Shot structure ** - The more complicated the lens structure, the more halos appeared in the image. 2. ** Focus ** - Wide-angle lenses could deal with halos better because a short focal length would make the light source look small. Telephoto lenses performed poorly and needed to be equipped with a longer hood because telephoto lenses would magnify the picture elements. 3. ** Film coating ** - Different brands of lens coating technology were different, such as Canon's NAC coating, Nikon's NCC coating, Fuji's SuperEBG coating, Zeiss 'T* coating, Pentax's Smc coating technology, etc. Multi-layer coating lens components had a greater impact on the lens halo. 4. ** Color filter quality ** - Poor quality filter would cause more light spots and ghosting in the image, which would affect the lens flare. 5. ** Dust on the lens ** - Dust inside the lens would cause more lens halos, and all lenses would accumulate dust. ** 2. Ways to avoid lens flare ** 1. ** Use the hood ** - Most lenses would be equipped with a hood, which could prevent light from shining directly on the front mirror of the lens, effectively avoiding glare, and also protect the lens in the event of a slight impact. Petal shaped lens hoods usually had a better effect than non-petal (round) lens hoods because the petal hood took into account the aspect ratio of the camera film or digital sensor. 2. ** Cover ** - When shooting, use leaves, buildings, or body parts of the character (such as the head, shoulders, etc.) to block some direct light. You can also put your hand on the lens to block the sunlight (the hand forms a "C" shape and adjust the angle until the halo disappears, but be careful not to block the lens). 3. ** Use a fixed-focus lens instead of a zoom lens ** - The structure of a fixed-focus lens was simpler than a zoom lens. There were fewer optical components and less lens halos in the image. The structure of the zoom lens was complicated. The hood could not block all stray light at all focal lengths. There were more reflective inner surfaces inside, which made it easier for the lens to glow. 4. ** Changing the angle of the camera ** - Changing the shooting angle could change the position of the light source in the lens to prevent direct sunlight from entering the lens and eliminate the lens halo. It could also be recomposed to block the light source from the elements in the picture. If the halo was strong when it was backlit, the halo would be weaker when it was changed to side backlit. ** 3. Techniques of Using the Halo of the Shot ** 1. ** Change the angle of the sun to shoot ** - When taking photos with a lens halo, you can move the shooting position left and right to block the light from the target or part of the object. If the sun was behind the subject, the subject would be more attractive under the glow of the lens. 2. ** Shooting with a zoom lens and hood removed ** - To highlight the lens halo effect, you can use a zoom lens and a wide-angle lens instead of a fixed-focus lens. 3. ** Confirm and plan the position of the lens flare in the image ** - Because the lens halo might make the photo beautiful in some corners of the picture, but not necessarily in other positions, it was necessary to outline the shooting angle and the angle of the light to take an interesting photo. 4. ** Create the required light source ** - If you can't find an ideal light source, you can create it with photography methods, such as lamps, light bulbs, studio lights, or flashes. 5. ** Find the right time to shoot ** - Light at different times had different characteristics. The light in the morning was softer. Understanding the characteristics of natural light could make interesting photos. Light at different times could bring different emotions to the image. 6. ** Backlight Shooting ** - In order to have a lens halo, the image was shot using backlighting photography, such as backlighting to create an edge light or silhouette image. 7. ** Try to move the corner to adjust the light reflection ** - Moving the corner to adjust the amount of light reflection can get the reflected light that is suitable for the image content, such as water reflection or light passing through the bridge hole. Backlight photography may require manual focus because the camera will capture areas with darker light sources. 8. ** Try different apertures ** - When adjusting the aperture, the reflected light will produce different effects. Try different apertures to get the desired effect. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Shifting lens photography
Tilt-shift photography, also known as tilt-shift photography, was a photography method that used a shift-shift lens to create a work. The characteristics of shift-lens photography were closely related to the characteristics of shift-lens. The most notable feature of the shift-axis lens was that it could shift, tilt, or rotate the main optical axis of the entire photographic lens while maintaining the position of the camera body and the film plane, thereby adjusting the perspective relationship of the photographed image or achieving full-area focusing. The reference clear image field was larger to ensure that the main optical axis of the lens could still obtain a clear image. It was also known as the "TS" lens ("TS" is the English "tilt and shift"),"oblique lens","shift lens" and so on. The main functions of shift-lens photography were as follows: 1. Correct perspective distortion: Reflect clearly in architectural photography. For example, when using a wide-angle focal length lens to shoot the shape of a building, the lines of the building's shape would converge upward due to the perspective effect of the near and far. However, when using a shift-axis lens to shoot, it could rely on its perspective adjustment function to correct this line convergence phenomenon, so that the building remained vertical in the picture, avoiding the feeling of tilting or even tilting. 2. [Realization of regional focus: Commonly used in commercial photography for product advertisements.] By combining the pan and tilt shooting functions of the lens, while correcting the perspective distortion of the subject, it can achieve a full-area focusing effect that is difficult to achieve with ordinary photographic lenses, so that the subject near and far in the picture can form a clear image. The photos and videos taken by the shift-lens photography were like miniature models, which could fully express the feeling of a "man-made city", which was unique and interesting. After using the shift-axis photographic lens on the 35mm single-lens reflex camera, it could be equipped with the function of a large-scale combined camera to control the perspective by adjusting the leather cavity, thus expanding the scope of use of this camera. It played a major role in the field of professional photography. For example, Canon's 135mm system's original, most widely used shift-axis lens, the ts-e 17mm4L, was regarded as an artifact. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
photography homework, single-lens reflex photography
Here are some tips on how to use DSLR cameras for photography homework: ** 1. The camera settings ** 1. ** Shooting Mode ** - Try to use manual mode. Manual mode allowed the photographer to precisely control the camera's parameters according to the specific shooting scene and needs, while automatic mode might not be able to meet some special shooting requirements. 2. ** White Balance Setting ** - If there was a color difference in the photo, it might be caused by the use of household light bulbs or the camera's default automatic white balance setting was inaccurate. In this case, you can try to set the white balance to daylight mode, or try to take a photo in all other white balance modes to compare which mode is closer to the actual color. 3. ** Setting of the sensitivity ** - For example, the higher the value, the brighter the photo, but at the same time, the more likely it was to have noise. It needed to be adjusted together with other values (such as aperture, shutter speed, etc.). For example, for a small object, you can set it to 200, and for a large object, you can set it to 400. 4. ** Exposing settings ** - The exposure value was displayed as-0.7,-0.3, 0, 0.3, 0.7, 1, etc. The higher the value, the brighter the photo. You can set the exposure value to 0.3 during the test shoot. 5. ** Shutter Speed Setting ** - Shutter speeds such as 1/60, 1/80, 1/100, 1/125, etc. The smaller the decimal value, the slower the speed, the more light entering the camera, and the brighter the photo taken. 6. ** Aperture setting ** - The smaller the aperture value, the larger the aperture. The more light entered, the brighter the photo. The larger the aperture value, the smaller the aperture. The less light entered, the darker the photo. It was important to note that the aperture and aperture value were in inverse proportion. The value on the camera was the aperture value, and the result after the adjustment was the aperture. For example, a photo taken with an aperture value of 3 is brighter than a photo taken with an aperture value of 6. ** 2. Shooting Techniques ** 1. ** Composing Skills ** - Diagonal composition, triangular composition, and other methods could be used to make the picture more beautiful and stable. He could also try the full-body composition method. - When shooting, you can stagger the composition or capture the moment when the character walks by to create a picture-in-picture effect. 2. ** Basic principles of filming ** - To make the photo have a clear and distinct theme, whether it was a person, a still life, or an event, it needed to be clearly expressed to avoid ambiguity or all-encompassing. - A good photo must draw attention to the subject so that the audience could immediately notice the core of the photographer's intention. - It made the photo more concise and removed those elements that couldn't set off the subject or even distract attention. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Single lens reflex photography, completely pushing the lens
Pushing the camera was a change in composition from far to near. Its main function was to highlight the main subject, make the audience's visual attention focused, strengthen the visual experience, and create a state of scrutiny. The effect of pushing the camera to the extreme was to make the subject stand out to the greatest extent, almost occupying the entire picture, so that the audience's attention was completely focused on the subject. When you push the camera, you must maintain a stable position and not let the audience feel uncomfortable. The following are some shooting techniques for pushing the camera: - Move the camera horizontally: The character walks in a straight line. The camera moves horizontally with the character and gradually moves the mirror toward the character. It shows the relationship between the character and the environment while guiding the audience's attention to the character. - Low-angle push shot: The character walks towards the camera, and the lens in front of the camera is gradually raised at the same time. The image will transition from the panoramic view of the character to the close-up view of the character. It can magnify the emotion of looking up at the camera and strengthen the narrative effect of the environment. - Quick Shot Push: In the same scene, the camera quickly pushed the lens to the character. The sudden acceleration of the camera can bring a strong impact, but pay attention to maintaining the stability of the lens. - Foreground Revealing Pushing Shot: Choose the right perspective, the camera will bypass the perspective and push the lens towards the character, revealing the key information of the picture as the camera goes deeper. - Pushing the camera from the side: The camera will push the camera from the side of the character to show the character's movements and posture, emphasizing and emphasizing the main character through the changes in the scene. - Pushing diagonally: Pushing diagonally from the side of the character, and finally changing the angle to enrich the expression of the shot. - [Over-the-shoulder Shot: Used when the character is talking and showing the focus of the character.] <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Canon single-lens reflex character photography lens
There were many types of Canon DSLR lenses for character photography. Among them, the 35mm f1.4 lens had excellent performance in portrait shooting. It could capture the delicate expression of the character and show the surrounding environment. The f1.4 large aperture background blurring effect was good, suitable for traveling portraits or indoor portraits. The 85mm f1.2 medium-focus lens could capture the details and expressions of the characters while maintaining a certain distance on the full frame. The picture was natural and realistic. The f1.2 large aperture allowed it to take bright and clear photos in low-light environments. The blurring effect was better than that of the 35mm f1.4 lens. The 70 - 200mm f2.8 telephoto zoom lens had a flexible focal length range, and the background blurring effect was better than the 35mm and 85mm lenses. It was suitable for long-distance shots such as stage portraits, athletes, concerts, etc., but indoor shooting required a large space. The EF100mm F2.8L IS USM lens could be used for macro and portrait shooting. It had double IS optical image stabilization, good sharpness and out-of-focus performance, and ideal autofocus speed for macro shooting. The ESF135mm F2LIS USM lens was a close-up shot of a portrait. It could bring a stronger sense of compression and better blurring effect. The focusing speed was fast, the lens body weighed 750g, and the image quality was excellent when the aperture was fully opened. It was sharp inside the focus and soft outside the focus. The 50mm fixed-focus lens was also commonly used for portrait shooting. The F1.2 lens with a large aperture had a better portrait shooting effect. The 50mm focal length belonged to the standard focal length, and the shooting effect was close to what the human eye could see. It would not cause space compression and could better express the surrounding environment of the subject. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
The lens of outdoor photography was scratched
If the field camera lens is scratched, it can be handled in the following ways: 1. First, he used different apertures to take photos to see if it affected the image. If it doesn't affect the image, you should buy a UV-lens or a skylight lens as soon as possible and install it in front of the lens (you can consult the staff of the local photographic equipment store. If the lens is not professional, the lens will be less than 100 yuan, which may be cheaper). After that, try to reduce the number of times you wipe the lens. From the perspective of imaging theory, if one didn't often shoot against a light source (a lens that lacked a coating would easily form glare on the film or light-sensitive material), there wouldn't be much of a problem. 2. If the scratch affected the image, it depended on the severity: - If it is very serious and the camera is often used, it is recommended to change the lens or camera. - If it was not very serious and it was not used often, it could be used temporarily without wasting resources. 3. If they were financially well-off, they could sell the scratched lenses or cameras and buy new equipment. In addition, there was also a camera blue light repair solution that could be used to repair scratches, spots, and stains on the lens. The main component was carbon nano-coating solution. When using it, the suction tube absorbs water, the water and the repair solution are mixed in a ratio of 1:3 and stirred evenly. With the fan to dry the lens, the repair solution is slowly applied with a brush or toothpick, and then slowly applied to the details. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>