Scenery building photography lens
Here are some shots suitable for landscape architecture photography: - ** SonyFE14mmF1.8GM Super Wide-angle lens **: It is quite attractive among the E-mount lenses. - ** Nikkor Z14 - 30mm f/4S **: Wide-angle zoom lens with a wide zooming angle. It can display good optical performance with the Nikon Z-series micro-lens. Its structural design was excellent, and it could be installed directly in front of the lens with a Polarizing (PL) filter or Neutral Density-Neutral (NT) filter. This was very helpful for the complex and ever-changing lighting conditions of outdoor buildings. It could also be supported by a variety of filter effects, and a high-performance light filter could be used to protect the front end of the lens. The lens structure design achieved good optical performance, clear resolution, and lens distortion control had obvious advantages in shooting architectural photography. - ** AF-S Nikkor 70 - 200mm f/2.8FF ED VR**: Telephoto lens, also useful in shooting city scenery. When the scene was too complicated and the main body was difficult to stand out, it could be used to show the close-up of the building after shooting the big scene. The lens had a 70 - 200mm focal length and could focus on the main building. The constant maximum aperture in the entire zooming range was fixed at f/2.8. The lens body was relatively light. It used a fluorite lens and a high refraction index (HR I) lens to reduce weight while ensuring optical performance. The constant maximum aperture of f/2.8 could ensure sufficient exposure. The more stable high-speed shutter was used to reduce the image vibration. - ** Canon ESF-S 10 - 22mm F3.5 - 4.5 USM**: When used with a C-format camera, the equivalent focal length is 16 - 35mm, covering angles from ultra-wide angle to 35mm small wide angle, suitable for shooting scenery. Although the maximum aperture was not F2.8, in landscape photography, a small aperture was usually used to obtain the maximum depth of field, so the maximum aperture of F3.5 - F4.5 was enough. It uses a piece of ultra-low dispersion lens, which can effectively reduce the color difference, so that the image has a higher resolution and color reproduction ability. It also uses three non-spherical lenses, which can correct and reduce aberrations and distortions. It is equipped with an ultrasonic motor. The internal focusing design of the IF reduces the size of the lens and improves the convenience of use. - Canon EF17 - 40mm F4LUSM: One of the Canon Small Three Elements. Excellent image quality, excellent wide-angle distortion control, and an equivalent focal length of 27 - 64mm on a C-format camera. It is suitable for shooting scenery and can also meet other daily shooting requirements. - ** Canon EF16 - 35mm F2.8L II USM**: It basically covers the common wide-angle focal length on Canon full-frame cameras. Under the constant large aperture of F2.8, the telephoto end is also good for shooting portraits. There were three pieces of aspheric lenses that were grinded, combined, and super-precision molded, including two UD lenses, which played an important role in improving image quality and correcting aberrations. As an L-grade lens, the bayonet, zooming ring, focusing ring, and other positions were sealed, and it had good dust-proof and drip-proof performance. - ** Tuli AFAT-X 11 - 16mm F2.8 PD-STAR-AS-IF-DG **: The most attractive feature is the 11 - 16mm ultra-wide angle focal length and the large aperture design with a constant F2.8 throughout the entire process. The internal focus and internal zoom design improved the sealing of the lens. The length of the lens body remained constant during zooming and autofocus operations. The balance and gripping performance were excellent. Although there was no ultrasonic motor, the focus was accurate, fast, cost-effective, and the optical quality was good. When installed on a full-frame camera, there were almost no dark corners starting from the focal length of 15mm. It could be used as a 15 - 16mm F2.8 large aperture lens. - Read more exciting novels for free
Single-lens reflex photography, outdoor shooting of people and scenery
When shooting people and scenery outdoors, there were the following DSLR photography techniques: ** 1. Filming Character ** 1. ** Focus and Focus ** - The focus of the portrait had to be accurately determined, always focusing on the eyes, because the eyes were the key focus of the portrait. 2. ** Aperture and Depth of Field ** - You can shoot with a large aperture (such as F2.8), which will produce a shallow depth of field effect, blurring the background and making the subject stand out. 3. ** Focus Selection ** - Try not to shoot a portrait smaller than 50mm. It is best to keep it at 70mm or higher to prevent the head from being deformed. 4. ** Shooting Mode ** - Usually, still portraits could be shot using the aperture priority mode. If you were shooting people in motion, it might not be possible to use the LV mode. At this time, you would have to use the TV (shutter priority mode). When capturing, set the shutter speed to about 1/250s to prevent the shot from being blurred. 5. ** file format ** - It is recommended to always shoot in the RAW format, not the JPEG format, because the RAW file format is digital negatives. 6. ** White Balance ** - He could bring a gray card to do the white balance. ** 2. Scenery Shooting ** 1. ** Shooting Mode and Aperture ** - You can shoot in P mode, and the aperture is usually set to around F5.6. 2. ** Screen Selection ** - It was best to use a wide-angle lens, which could take in more scenery into one photo, but the shooting effect would reduce the distant scenery, giving people a sense of distance; a telephoto lens could bring the distant scenery closer, giving a strong sense of compression. 3. ** Picture composition ** - To avoid placing the most attractive scenery in the middle, you can use the three-point composition, frame composition rule, symmetrical composition, diagonal composition, white space composition, etc. This way, the main and secondary parts of the picture are more distinct and will not be rigid. 4. ** Other equipment ** - It is recommended to bring a tripod to prevent the photo from blurring due to shaking. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Scenery lens
Here are some shots commonly used in landscape photography: - ** One lens to conquer the world (large zoom lens)**: For example, 18 - 200mm lens, suitable for daily use, but there are shortcomings. Its zooming ratio was too large, and the image quality was ordinary. It was mostly used for daily life records and was not suitable for creative and commercial use. Moreover, the aperture was small, so it was impossible to shoot the illusion effect. The amount of light entering was small, so it was difficult to shoot with a hand in a dim environment. - ** Wide-angle lens **: The focal length is between 24 - 35mm, and the 28mm focal length is especially commonly used. This type of lens could highlight the background and enhance the sense of space in the picture. It was a commonly used type of lens for landscape photography. - ** Ultra-wide angle lens **: With a focal length of 24mm or less, it can expand the shooting range, highlight the prospects, and shoot a strong visual impact. However, when using it, one had to pay attention to the perspective distortion and the glare phenomenon when shooting against the light. - ** Telephoto lens **: The focal length of 70mm and above belongs to the range of telephoto lens. Common ones are 70 - 200mm, 100 - 400mm, etc. It could compress space, making the background and the background closer to each other, creating an artistic image. It could also blur the background. The effect of blurring was even better when the telephoto was used with a large aperture. However, telephoto lenses were generally heavy, which could bring physical burden to outdoor shooting. The lenses suitable for landscape photography under certain brands are recommended as follows: - Canon: - ** EF16 - 35mm f/2.8L III USM lens **: Professional wide-angle zoom lens with excellent optical performance and wide viewing angle, suitable for landscape and architectural shooting. - ** RF24 - 105mm f/4L IS USM lens **: The focal length covers from wide angle to medium telephoto. It has good image stability and is suitable for travel and landscape photography. - Nikon: - ** AF-S NikKOR 14 - 24mm f/2.8G ED lens **: Excellent sharpness and color reproduction, suitable for landscape photography. - ** Z24 - 120mm f/4S lens **: designed for Nikon Z-mount, wide focal length, excellent optical performance, suitable for landscape photography. - ** Sonyx **: F12 - 24mm f/4G lens, providing an extremely wide viewing angle, suitable for shooting vast scenery and excellent optical performance. - ** Fujifilm (suitable for Fujifilm microcameras)**: Fujifilm XF 10 - 24mm f/4R OIS lens, wide viewing angle and good image stabilization. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Landscape photography lens
In landscape photography, different types of lenses had their own characteristics and uses. ** 1. Wide-angle lens ** 1. ** Specialties ** - It provides a wide field of vision and can include the entire landscape into the picture, from the front to the horizon. - With the widest depth of field, it can focus on the entire scenery, so that the front and back scenes of the subject can be clearly reproduced on the screen. - Distortion would magnify the objects in the background, showing close-up details, and emphasizing the guide lines, enhancing the dynamic of the composition. 2. ** Exemplary recommended shots ** - Nikon Z14 - 24mm F2.8S: An all-round upgrade. Its design and performance surpass the same type of lens with a single-lens reflex mount. It is no longer a big bulb design. Its size and weight are greatly reduced. It weighs only 650g. It comes with two disassembled hoods and a rear filter slot. It is excellent in glare, distortion, and dispersion control. - Canon RF15 - 35F2.8LIS USM: A super wide-angle lens with excellent image quality and optical performance. The wide-angle end is wider by 1mm, and the viewing angle is increased to 110°. It has a non-bulb structure design, 82 filter size, reduced cost, and a weight of 840g. It has good anti-glare performance. It is equipped with optical image stabilization to achieve 1/2 second hand-held shooting. - SIGMA16 - 28mm F2.8DG Continental: Picture quality comparable to Tamron 17 - 28mm F2.8, focal length 1mm wider than 17 - 28mm. - You could also consider a 16 - 35 wide-angle zoom lens. ** 2. Telephoto lens ** 1. ** Specialties ** - A narrow field of view, suitable for trimming excess elements and focusing on small but beautiful scenes, such as the curve of a mountain, the reflection of a pond in the distance, or the silhouette of a tree. - It could compress the space, making it easier to highlight the main body. It was easy to get started, and the composition was extremely flexible. It had the ability to make deductions. 2. ** Exemplary recommended shots ** - 70 - 200mm focal length: - Tenglong 70 - 200 (G2): Fast focusing speed, improved edge quality, brand new price 7490 yuan. - Sony users could choose the 70 - 180mm (A056) from Tenglong, priced at 6890 yuan. From the MTF curve, the sharpness of the 70mm end and 180mm end was close to the original 70 - 200GM. - Canon users with high cost-performance ratio could choose the White Rabbit EF70 - 200mm f/2.8L IS II USM (second generation), and the second-hand quality was more than 7000 yuan; those with weight requirements could choose the 70 - 200mm f/4L IS II USM; Canon non-reflective users could choose the lightweight RF70 - 200F4, and those who pursued higher directly chose the RF70 - 200F2.8. - Nikon users could choose to use the Electromagnetic Gun or the 70 - 200 Z-mount. - If the users didn't mind the focus and weight, the 70 - 200F2.8 first-generation model was very cost-effective. After the second-generation model was released, the first-generation model would have a small price reduction. The second-generation model was 29% lighter than the first-generation model and the difference in focus. - 100 - 400mm focal length: - The sub-factory's Sigma100 - 400 and Tenglong 100 - 400 could be selected. They were suitable for shooting birds when they were occasionally idle and lotus flowers during the lotus season. The Sigma100 - 400mm part of the sharpness for the Sony-compatible users was higher, but the focus was slow and the light was slightly weak. It could be used as a tourist attraction. The Nikon Z100 - 400mm F4.5 - 5.6 VR S had fast focusing speed and no shortcomings. It was the top lens of its type. The quality of the lens was good from the center to the edge. The anti-glare, dispersion control, and dark angle control were in place. It was suitable for shooting sunrise and sunset in landscape photography. It also had twice the effect with half the effort in broad scenes such as mountains and grasslands. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Reflex lens photography
The works shot with a reflective lens had a unique effect. For example, the wild cypress flowers in Northeast China shot by Nikon Z8 with NiSi 250mm F5.6 ReflexTF lens, as well as the peony flowers under the backlighting shot by this lens, presented a hazy, dreamy and gentle effect; peony flowers and barnyard grass could be covered with dewdrops, and the roadside flowers under the backlighting with the morning sun sprinkled on them were particularly dazzling; The picture of the path in the pear tree garden was taken through this lens with five multiple exposure shots. The picture was soft and transparent, with comfortable retro warm colors. It looked calm, clean, and more like an oil painting atmosphere. These works could display the unique haziness effect of the lens. When the point light source in the background or when there were dewdrops on the grass or ripples on the river under the backlighting, the highlights would form a charming ring-shaped defocused " donut ". The more highlights outside the depth of field, the brighter the donut effect would be. At the same time, it could also show the retro and unrestrained two-line effect. Its tone and color were unique, giving it a sense of oil painting and presenting an artistic two-line touch. The soft, retro oil painting's tones and shades gave off a dreamy effect. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Private photography lens
Generally, when taking private photos indoors, many photographers would choose 28mm and 35mm fixed-focus lenses for shooting because the distortion of the ultra-wide-angle lens was too serious. Among them, 28mm f1.4 was known as the best lens for shooting private photos. Its focal length was wide enough to achieve the blurring effect. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Impressionist photography lens
Impressionism photography originated from the Impressionism painting. In the early days, Impressionists used soft focus lenses to obtain soft and hazy images, which was a manifestation of the use of impressionist photography lenses. In modern impressionist photography, ordinary lenses could be used to create an impressionist style through some shooting techniques. For example, when using the lens, use the defocus method to pull the lens out of focus, use the aperture priority mode, and set the lens to the largest aperture.(Small numbers, such as f/2.4 or f/4) to obtain a very shallow depth of field, then switch to manual focus and turn the focus ring until the picture is blurred. By changing the focus of the same scene, you can find the degree of blurring that is suitable for the subject. You can also use the zoom lens to perform zooming and zooming continuous shooting or zooming blurring operations. When shooting, you can change the focal length of the lens (zooming in or out), so that the lens is blurred from the center to the outside, creating an impressionistic photography effect. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
lens flare photography
The lens halo was a common phenomenon in photography. It was caused by the lens group consisting of multiple lenses. Although the lens had high penetration, there was reflection and scattering. The light rays that did not maintain the same direction as the incident light formed a halo, and the internal reflection and scattering of the lens were the main reasons. ** 1. The factors that affect the formation of lens halos ** 1. ** Shot structure ** - The more complicated the lens structure, the more halos appeared in the image. 2. ** Focus ** - Wide-angle lenses could deal with halos better because a short focal length would make the light source look small. Telephoto lenses performed poorly and needed to be equipped with a longer hood because telephoto lenses would magnify the picture elements. 3. ** Film coating ** - Different brands of lens coating technology were different, such as Canon's NAC coating, Nikon's NCC coating, Fuji's SuperEBG coating, Zeiss 'T* coating, Pentax's Smc coating technology, etc. Multi-layer coating lens components had a greater impact on the lens halo. 4. ** Color filter quality ** - Poor quality filter would cause more light spots and ghosting in the image, which would affect the lens flare. 5. ** Dust on the lens ** - Dust inside the lens would cause more lens halos, and all lenses would accumulate dust. ** 2. Ways to avoid lens flare ** 1. ** Use the hood ** - Most lenses would be equipped with a hood, which could prevent light from shining directly on the front mirror of the lens, effectively avoiding glare, and also protect the lens in the event of a slight impact. Petal shaped lens hoods usually had a better effect than non-petal (round) lens hoods because the petal hood took into account the aspect ratio of the camera film or digital sensor. 2. ** Cover ** - When shooting, use leaves, buildings, or body parts of the character (such as the head, shoulders, etc.) to block some direct light. You can also put your hand on the lens to block the sunlight (the hand forms a "C" shape and adjust the angle until the halo disappears, but be careful not to block the lens). 3. ** Use a fixed-focus lens instead of a zoom lens ** - The structure of a fixed-focus lens was simpler than a zoom lens. There were fewer optical components and less lens halos in the image. The structure of the zoom lens was complicated. The hood could not block all stray light at all focal lengths. There were more reflective inner surfaces inside, which made it easier for the lens to glow. 4. ** Changing the angle of the camera ** - Changing the shooting angle could change the position of the light source in the lens to prevent direct sunlight from entering the lens and eliminate the lens halo. It could also be recomposed to block the light source from the elements in the picture. If the halo was strong when it was backlit, the halo would be weaker when it was changed to side backlit. ** 3. Techniques of Using the Halo of the Shot ** 1. ** Change the angle of the sun to shoot ** - When taking photos with a lens halo, you can move the shooting position left and right to block the light from the target or part of the object. If the sun was behind the subject, the subject would be more attractive under the glow of the lens. 2. ** Shooting with a zoom lens and hood removed ** - To highlight the lens halo effect, you can use a zoom lens and a wide-angle lens instead of a fixed-focus lens. 3. ** Confirm and plan the position of the lens flare in the image ** - Because the lens halo might make the photo beautiful in some corners of the picture, but not necessarily in other positions, it was necessary to outline the shooting angle and the angle of the light to take an interesting photo. 4. ** Create the required light source ** - If you can't find an ideal light source, you can create it with photography methods, such as lamps, light bulbs, studio lights, or flashes. 5. ** Find the right time to shoot ** - Light at different times had different characteristics. The light in the morning was softer. Understanding the characteristics of natural light could make interesting photos. Light at different times could bring different emotions to the image. 6. ** Backlight Shooting ** - In order to have a lens halo, the image was shot using backlighting photography, such as backlighting to create an edge light or silhouette image. 7. ** Try to move the corner to adjust the light reflection ** - Moving the corner to adjust the amount of light reflection can get the reflected light that is suitable for the image content, such as water reflection or light passing through the bridge hole. Backlight photography may require manual focus because the camera will capture areas with darker light sources. 8. ** Try different apertures ** - When adjusting the aperture, the reflected light will produce different effects. Try different apertures to get the desired effect. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Shifting lens photography
Tilt-shift photography, also known as tilt-shift photography, was a photography method that used a shift-shift lens to create a work. The characteristics of shift-lens photography were closely related to the characteristics of shift-lens. The most notable feature of the shift-axis lens was that it could shift, tilt, or rotate the main optical axis of the entire photographic lens while maintaining the position of the camera body and the film plane, thereby adjusting the perspective relationship of the photographed image or achieving full-area focusing. The reference clear image field was larger to ensure that the main optical axis of the lens could still obtain a clear image. It was also known as the "TS" lens ("TS" is the English "tilt and shift"),"oblique lens","shift lens" and so on. The main functions of shift-lens photography were as follows: 1. Correct perspective distortion: Reflect clearly in architectural photography. For example, when using a wide-angle focal length lens to shoot the shape of a building, the lines of the building's shape would converge upward due to the perspective effect of the near and far. However, when using a shift-axis lens to shoot, it could rely on its perspective adjustment function to correct this line convergence phenomenon, so that the building remained vertical in the picture, avoiding the feeling of tilting or even tilting. 2. [Realization of regional focus: Commonly used in commercial photography for product advertisements.] By combining the pan and tilt shooting functions of the lens, while correcting the perspective distortion of the subject, it can achieve a full-area focusing effect that is difficult to achieve with ordinary photographic lenses, so that the subject near and far in the picture can form a clear image. The photos and videos taken by the shift-lens photography were like miniature models, which could fully express the feeling of a "man-made city", which was unique and interesting. After using the shift-axis photographic lens on the 35mm single-lens reflex camera, it could be equipped with the function of a large-scale combined camera to control the perspective by adjusting the leather cavity, thus expanding the scope of use of this camera. It played a major role in the field of professional photography. For example, Canon's 135mm system's original, most widely used shift-axis lens, the ts-e 17mm4L, was regarded as an artifact. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
photography homework, single-lens reflex photography
Here are some tips on how to use DSLR cameras for photography homework: ** 1. The camera settings ** 1. ** Shooting Mode ** - Try to use manual mode. Manual mode allowed the photographer to precisely control the camera's parameters according to the specific shooting scene and needs, while automatic mode might not be able to meet some special shooting requirements. 2. ** White Balance Setting ** - If there was a color difference in the photo, it might be caused by the use of household light bulbs or the camera's default automatic white balance setting was inaccurate. In this case, you can try to set the white balance to daylight mode, or try to take a photo in all other white balance modes to compare which mode is closer to the actual color. 3. ** Setting of the sensitivity ** - For example, the higher the value, the brighter the photo, but at the same time, the more likely it was to have noise. It needed to be adjusted together with other values (such as aperture, shutter speed, etc.). For example, for a small object, you can set it to 200, and for a large object, you can set it to 400. 4. ** Exposing settings ** - The exposure value was displayed as-0.7,-0.3, 0, 0.3, 0.7, 1, etc. The higher the value, the brighter the photo. You can set the exposure value to 0.3 during the test shoot. 5. ** Shutter Speed Setting ** - Shutter speeds such as 1/60, 1/80, 1/100, 1/125, etc. The smaller the decimal value, the slower the speed, the more light entering the camera, and the brighter the photo taken. 6. ** Aperture setting ** - The smaller the aperture value, the larger the aperture. The more light entered, the brighter the photo. The larger the aperture value, the smaller the aperture. The less light entered, the darker the photo. It was important to note that the aperture and aperture value were in inverse proportion. The value on the camera was the aperture value, and the result after the adjustment was the aperture. For example, a photo taken with an aperture value of 3 is brighter than a photo taken with an aperture value of 6. ** 2. Shooting Techniques ** 1. ** Composing Skills ** - Diagonal composition, triangular composition, and other methods could be used to make the picture more beautiful and stable. He could also try the full-body composition method. - When shooting, you can stagger the composition or capture the moment when the character walks by to create a picture-in-picture effect. 2. ** Basic principles of filming ** - To make the photo have a clear and distinct theme, whether it was a person, a still life, or an event, it needed to be clearly expressed to avoid ambiguity or all-encompassing. - A good photo must draw attention to the subject so that the audience could immediately notice the core of the photographer's intention. - It made the photo more concise and removed those elements that couldn't set off the subject or even distract attention. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Nikon photography scenery
Nikon cameras had many advantages in landscape photography. From the perspective of body selection, the Nikon Z7 II was more suitable for landscape photography. It was lighter than the Nikon D850, with a Z-mount lens for a better experience, better video performance, and smaller size. The Nikon Z9 was also used for time-lapse shots in landscape photography. In addition, the Nikon Z7 performed well in terms of control and focusing system. Its button layout was reasonable, and the function keys and dial were easy to use. It was easy to operate with one hand and could quickly complete the adjustment of parameters. It also had a foldable touch screen that could be folded at a large angle to facilitate shooting from a large angle. Touch operation was also convenient to change settings, adjust parameters, and change focus. At the same time, it had a practical shoulder screen that could check the camera status and save power when shooting at night. In terms of image quality, Nikon's full-frame professional micro-single Z7 had 45.75 million graphics, which could retain more landscape details, make the picture more transparent and clear, and provide room for error tolerance for early composition. The resolution of the picture after the second cut was also sufficient. Nikon's microphone was equipped with the EXPED 6 image processor, which helped to improve the image quality of the sensor. Nikon cameras had excellent tolerance, and when they repaired images through the raw file format in a high-light environment, they would not increase noise or cause the image to change color. When taking photos in a bright environment, it was recommended to ensure that the exposure of the highlight area was relatively normal and sacrifice the details of the dark area because it was easier to repair the dark details than the highlight details. Nikon cameras recorded colors accurately, and JPG images would not be off-color, ensuring the layering of the colors. In terms of anti-shake performance, Nikon's full-frame professional micro-single Z6 and Z7 had excellent anti-shake effects. They were equipped with body anti-shake, which could provide a shock absorption effect that increased the shutter speed by about 5 gears. It could help photographers maintain the stability of the image in shaky scenes and maintain stability when holding relatively slow shutter speeds. From the perspective of shooting techniques, landscape photographers often used F8 and F11 apertures to ensure the clarity of the entire picture. Nikon's full-frame professional micro-single Z6 and Z7 didn't have to worry too much about the loss of image quality when the lens aperture was the largest and smallest. In addition, the prime time period of landscape photography was the sunrise and sunset stage. Thirty minutes before sunrise, the sky was just bright, and the contrast of the picture was large, so it was possible to take photos with light and dark intertwined. Thirty minutes before sunset, the sky was dark and the city street lamps had just been lit up. The picture presented the beauty of the night. If you were lucky, you could also encounter the sunset and sunset, which made the picture more artistic. In addition to sunrise and sunset, special moments such as solar eclipses and lightning were also subjects that landscape photographers could not miss. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>