A more practical lens for photography
The following are some of the more practical photography lenses: - ** Nikon 70 - 200mm f/2.8E LED VR lens **: Although it is relatively heavy, it has a high rate of exposure. It is a commonly used lens when traveling. - ** Nikon 14 - 24mm f/2.8G ED lens **: It is loved by architecture, landscape, and starry sky photographers. The 14mm focal length has a unique advantage in landscape photography. - ** Nikon 58mm f/1.4G lens **: It received a lot of praise online. - ** Canon EF35mm F1.4L II USM lens **: Universal lens. It is described as being able to attack and defend at will. It is suitable for a variety of shooting needs. - ** Canon 70 - 200mm f2.8L IS II USM lens **: High sharpness at full aperture. - ** Canon TS-E 17mm 4L lens **: It is the widest shift-axis lens in the original 135mm system. - ** 85mm fixed-focus lens **: The advantage is that the shooting angle is about 28 degrees. Under the large aperture, the deep background can simplify the background and highlight the character, and the background blurring effect is good. The distance from the whole body to the close-up is 1.5 meters to 5 meters, which is a comfortable distance from the model. The image quality is basically the ceiling of the image quality of various lenses. However, the angle of view was fixed, and if the shooting distance and angle were not controlled well, the image would be monotonous. - **24 - 70mmL2.8 lens **: It can be used to shoot scenery or portraits. The shooting distance can be close or far, and the quality is good. It can be zoomed when there are many people taking portraits, avoiding moving back and forth like a fixed-focus lens. If the character is far away from the background and the aperture is opened wide, it can also get a better background blurring effect. - ** Tenglong 28 - 75mm F2.8 Di III RXD G2E mount lens **: The price is relatively cheap, 5800 yuan. On the basis of the first generation, the quality, color, and focal length have been improved. It takes into account the large aperture and lightness, suitable for video and photography. - ** Nikon Z24 - 70mm F4S lens **: Price: 3699 yuan. The image quality is good, the sharpness is excellent, and the focus is quiet and fast. It is suitable for home users. - ** Sima 28 - 70mm F2.8 lens **: It is the lightest full-frame zoom lens. The overall picture quality is fine, and the focusing speed is good. - ** SIMAHA 18 - 50mm F2.8 DC-GN| "Modern lens **: Special for half-frame, suitable for a variety of mounts, small size, only 290g, equivalent focal length 27 - 75mm, standard zoom lens, overall quality is good, although the aperture is fully open, the edge of the image quality is average, the center is sharper, but the image quality is better when the aperture is F4. The closest focusing distance is 12.1cm, which can take into account some macro photography. - Canon RF50mm F1.8 ATM lens: 1599 yuan. The size is close to a biscuit head. It is small and convenient to carry. The sharpness of the full-aperture is ideal. The aperture outside the focal point is relatively smooth, but the purple edge of the highlight and the control of the glare are not particularly good. It is suitable for entry-level portraits. - ** Nikon Z50mm F1.8S lens **: Although the price is 3750 yuan, the F1.8 aperture can be used with high sharpness and good image quality. - ** Canon RF24 - 105mm F4LIS USM lens **: The workmanship is solid. With the addition of the Ultra Low Dispersion lens and multiple aspheric lenses, the edge image quality has been improved. The center sharpness is excellent, the focus is quiet and fast, and it has IS optical image stabilization. The dispersion control is good. It has a certain wide-angle and telephoto, and a constant F4 aperture. - ** Sony24 - 105mm F4G OSS lens **: Price: 6999 yuan. Read more exciting novels for free
Shifting lens photography
Tilt-shift photography, also known as tilt-shift photography, was a photography method that used a shift-shift lens to create a work. The characteristics of shift-lens photography were closely related to the characteristics of shift-lens. The most notable feature of the shift-axis lens was that it could shift, tilt, or rotate the main optical axis of the entire photographic lens while maintaining the position of the camera body and the film plane, thereby adjusting the perspective relationship of the photographed image or achieving full-area focusing. The reference clear image field was larger to ensure that the main optical axis of the lens could still obtain a clear image. It was also known as the "TS" lens ("TS" is the English "tilt and shift"),"oblique lens","shift lens" and so on. The main functions of shift-lens photography were as follows: 1. Correct perspective distortion: Reflect clearly in architectural photography. For example, when using a wide-angle focal length lens to shoot the shape of a building, the lines of the building's shape would converge upward due to the perspective effect of the near and far. However, when using a shift-axis lens to shoot, it could rely on its perspective adjustment function to correct this line convergence phenomenon, so that the building remained vertical in the picture, avoiding the feeling of tilting or even tilting. 2. [Realization of regional focus: Commonly used in commercial photography for product advertisements.] By combining the pan and tilt shooting functions of the lens, while correcting the perspective distortion of the subject, it can achieve a full-area focusing effect that is difficult to achieve with ordinary photographic lenses, so that the subject near and far in the picture can form a clear image. The photos and videos taken by the shift-lens photography were like miniature models, which could fully express the feeling of a "man-made city", which was unique and interesting. After using the shift-axis photographic lens on the 35mm single-lens reflex camera, it could be equipped with the function of a large-scale combined camera to control the perspective by adjusting the leather cavity, thus expanding the scope of use of this camera. It played a major role in the field of professional photography. For example, Canon's 135mm system's original, most widely used shift-axis lens, the ts-e 17mm4L, was regarded as an artifact. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Impressionist photography lens
Impressionism photography originated from the Impressionism painting. In the early days, Impressionists used soft focus lenses to obtain soft and hazy images, which was a manifestation of the use of impressionist photography lenses. In modern impressionist photography, ordinary lenses could be used to create an impressionist style through some shooting techniques. For example, when using the lens, use the defocus method to pull the lens out of focus, use the aperture priority mode, and set the lens to the largest aperture.(Small numbers, such as f/2.4 or f/4) to obtain a very shallow depth of field, then switch to manual focus and turn the focus ring until the picture is blurred. By changing the focus of the same scene, you can find the degree of blurring that is suitable for the subject. You can also use the zoom lens to perform zooming and zooming continuous shooting or zooming blurring operations. When shooting, you can change the focal length of the lens (zooming in or out), so that the lens is blurred from the center to the outside, creating an impressionistic photography effect. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
lens flare photography
The lens halo was a common phenomenon in photography. It was caused by the lens group consisting of multiple lenses. Although the lens had high penetration, there was reflection and scattering. The light rays that did not maintain the same direction as the incident light formed a halo, and the internal reflection and scattering of the lens were the main reasons. ** 1. The factors that affect the formation of lens halos ** 1. ** Shot structure ** - The more complicated the lens structure, the more halos appeared in the image. 2. ** Focus ** - Wide-angle lenses could deal with halos better because a short focal length would make the light source look small. Telephoto lenses performed poorly and needed to be equipped with a longer hood because telephoto lenses would magnify the picture elements. 3. ** Film coating ** - Different brands of lens coating technology were different, such as Canon's NAC coating, Nikon's NCC coating, Fuji's SuperEBG coating, Zeiss 'T* coating, Pentax's Smc coating technology, etc. Multi-layer coating lens components had a greater impact on the lens halo. 4. ** Color filter quality ** - Poor quality filter would cause more light spots and ghosting in the image, which would affect the lens flare. 5. ** Dust on the lens ** - Dust inside the lens would cause more lens halos, and all lenses would accumulate dust. ** 2. Ways to avoid lens flare ** 1. ** Use the hood ** - Most lenses would be equipped with a hood, which could prevent light from shining directly on the front mirror of the lens, effectively avoiding glare, and also protect the lens in the event of a slight impact. Petal shaped lens hoods usually had a better effect than non-petal (round) lens hoods because the petal hood took into account the aspect ratio of the camera film or digital sensor. 2. ** Cover ** - When shooting, use leaves, buildings, or body parts of the character (such as the head, shoulders, etc.) to block some direct light. You can also put your hand on the lens to block the sunlight (the hand forms a "C" shape and adjust the angle until the halo disappears, but be careful not to block the lens). 3. ** Use a fixed-focus lens instead of a zoom lens ** - The structure of a fixed-focus lens was simpler than a zoom lens. There were fewer optical components and less lens halos in the image. The structure of the zoom lens was complicated. The hood could not block all stray light at all focal lengths. There were more reflective inner surfaces inside, which made it easier for the lens to glow. 4. ** Changing the angle of the camera ** - Changing the shooting angle could change the position of the light source in the lens to prevent direct sunlight from entering the lens and eliminate the lens halo. It could also be recomposed to block the light source from the elements in the picture. If the halo was strong when it was backlit, the halo would be weaker when it was changed to side backlit. ** 3. Techniques of Using the Halo of the Shot ** 1. ** Change the angle of the sun to shoot ** - When taking photos with a lens halo, you can move the shooting position left and right to block the light from the target or part of the object. If the sun was behind the subject, the subject would be more attractive under the glow of the lens. 2. ** Shooting with a zoom lens and hood removed ** - To highlight the lens halo effect, you can use a zoom lens and a wide-angle lens instead of a fixed-focus lens. 3. ** Confirm and plan the position of the lens flare in the image ** - Because the lens halo might make the photo beautiful in some corners of the picture, but not necessarily in other positions, it was necessary to outline the shooting angle and the angle of the light to take an interesting photo. 4. ** Create the required light source ** - If you can't find an ideal light source, you can create it with photography methods, such as lamps, light bulbs, studio lights, or flashes. 5. ** Find the right time to shoot ** - Light at different times had different characteristics. The light in the morning was softer. Understanding the characteristics of natural light could make interesting photos. Light at different times could bring different emotions to the image. 6. ** Backlight Shooting ** - In order to have a lens halo, the image was shot using backlighting photography, such as backlighting to create an edge light or silhouette image. 7. ** Try to move the corner to adjust the light reflection ** - Moving the corner to adjust the amount of light reflection can get the reflected light that is suitable for the image content, such as water reflection or light passing through the bridge hole. Backlight photography may require manual focus because the camera will capture areas with darker light sources. 8. ** Try different apertures ** - When adjusting the aperture, the reflected light will produce different effects. Try different apertures to get the desired effect. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Private photography lens
Generally, when taking private photos indoors, many photographers would choose 28mm and 35mm fixed-focus lenses for shooting because the distortion of the ultra-wide-angle lens was too serious. Among them, 28mm f1.4 was known as the best lens for shooting private photos. Its focal length was wide enough to achieve the blurring effect. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
photography homework, single-lens reflex photography
Here are some tips on how to use DSLR cameras for photography homework: ** 1. The camera settings ** 1. ** Shooting Mode ** - Try to use manual mode. Manual mode allowed the photographer to precisely control the camera's parameters according to the specific shooting scene and needs, while automatic mode might not be able to meet some special shooting requirements. 2. ** White Balance Setting ** - If there was a color difference in the photo, it might be caused by the use of household light bulbs or the camera's default automatic white balance setting was inaccurate. In this case, you can try to set the white balance to daylight mode, or try to take a photo in all other white balance modes to compare which mode is closer to the actual color. 3. ** Setting of the sensitivity ** - For example, the higher the value, the brighter the photo, but at the same time, the more likely it was to have noise. It needed to be adjusted together with other values (such as aperture, shutter speed, etc.). For example, for a small object, you can set it to 200, and for a large object, you can set it to 400. 4. ** Exposing settings ** - The exposure value was displayed as-0.7,-0.3, 0, 0.3, 0.7, 1, etc. The higher the value, the brighter the photo. You can set the exposure value to 0.3 during the test shoot. 5. ** Shutter Speed Setting ** - Shutter speeds such as 1/60, 1/80, 1/100, 1/125, etc. The smaller the decimal value, the slower the speed, the more light entering the camera, and the brighter the photo taken. 6. ** Aperture setting ** - The smaller the aperture value, the larger the aperture. The more light entered, the brighter the photo. The larger the aperture value, the smaller the aperture. The less light entered, the darker the photo. It was important to note that the aperture and aperture value were in inverse proportion. The value on the camera was the aperture value, and the result after the adjustment was the aperture. For example, a photo taken with an aperture value of 3 is brighter than a photo taken with an aperture value of 6. ** 2. Shooting Techniques ** 1. ** Composing Skills ** - Diagonal composition, triangular composition, and other methods could be used to make the picture more beautiful and stable. He could also try the full-body composition method. - When shooting, you can stagger the composition or capture the moment when the character walks by to create a picture-in-picture effect. 2. ** Basic principles of filming ** - To make the photo have a clear and distinct theme, whether it was a person, a still life, or an event, it needed to be clearly expressed to avoid ambiguity or all-encompassing. - A good photo must draw attention to the subject so that the audience could immediately notice the core of the photographer's intention. - It made the photo more concise and removed those elements that couldn't set off the subject or even distract attention. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Canon single-lens reflex character photography lens
There were many types of Canon DSLR lenses for character photography. Among them, the 35mm f1.4 lens had excellent performance in portrait shooting. It could capture the delicate expression of the character and show the surrounding environment. The f1.4 large aperture background blurring effect was good, suitable for traveling portraits or indoor portraits. The 85mm f1.2 medium-focus lens could capture the details and expressions of the characters while maintaining a certain distance on the full frame. The picture was natural and realistic. The f1.2 large aperture allowed it to take bright and clear photos in low-light environments. The blurring effect was better than that of the 35mm f1.4 lens. The 70 - 200mm f2.8 telephoto zoom lens had a flexible focal length range, and the background blurring effect was better than the 35mm and 85mm lenses. It was suitable for long-distance shots such as stage portraits, athletes, concerts, etc., but indoor shooting required a large space. The EF100mm F2.8L IS USM lens could be used for macro and portrait shooting. It had double IS optical image stabilization, good sharpness and out-of-focus performance, and ideal autofocus speed for macro shooting. The ESF135mm F2LIS USM lens was a close-up shot of a portrait. It could bring a stronger sense of compression and better blurring effect. The focusing speed was fast, the lens body weighed 750g, and the image quality was excellent when the aperture was fully opened. It was sharp inside the focus and soft outside the focus. The 50mm fixed-focus lens was also commonly used for portrait shooting. The F1.2 lens with a large aperture had a better portrait shooting effect. The 50mm focal length belonged to the standard focal length, and the shooting effect was close to what the human eye could see. It would not cause space compression and could better express the surrounding environment of the subject. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Single lens reflex photography, completely pushing the lens
Pushing the camera was a change in composition from far to near. Its main function was to highlight the main subject, make the audience's visual attention focused, strengthen the visual experience, and create a state of scrutiny. The effect of pushing the camera to the extreme was to make the subject stand out to the greatest extent, almost occupying the entire picture, so that the audience's attention was completely focused on the subject. When you push the camera, you must maintain a stable position and not let the audience feel uncomfortable. The following are some shooting techniques for pushing the camera: - Move the camera horizontally: The character walks in a straight line. The camera moves horizontally with the character and gradually moves the mirror toward the character. It shows the relationship between the character and the environment while guiding the audience's attention to the character. - Low-angle push shot: The character walks towards the camera, and the lens in front of the camera is gradually raised at the same time. The image will transition from the panoramic view of the character to the close-up view of the character. It can magnify the emotion of looking up at the camera and strengthen the narrative effect of the environment. - Quick Shot Push: In the same scene, the camera quickly pushed the lens to the character. The sudden acceleration of the camera can bring a strong impact, but pay attention to maintaining the stability of the lens. - Foreground Revealing Pushing Shot: Choose the right perspective, the camera will bypass the perspective and push the lens towards the character, revealing the key information of the picture as the camera goes deeper. - Pushing the camera from the side: The camera will push the camera from the side of the character to show the character's movements and posture, emphasizing and emphasizing the main character through the changes in the scene. - Pushing diagonally: Pushing diagonally from the side of the character, and finally changing the angle to enrich the expression of the shot. - [Over-the-shoulder Shot: Used when the character is talking and showing the focus of the character.] <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Selection of indoor photography lens
In the case of indoors, due to the influence of space and environmental light, lenses with relatively short focal lengths were generally selected, such as 35mm, 50mm, or 16 - 35, 24 - 70 medium and short focal lengths. Aperture was very important when shooting indoors. Since the indoor light was not as bright as the outdoor light, a large aperture was essential to ensure that the lens had a good amount of light. Due to the focal length, the short focal length lens had a relatively weak ability to compress space and blur the background during shooting. A large aperture could also have a better ability to blur the background when the focal length was short. Generally, the aperture of the fixed-focus lens could be made larger, and the sharpness was also higher than that of the zoom lens. Therefore, the fixed-focus lens was generally used for indoor portrait shooting, but this also varied from person to person. Generally, photography agencies would use fixed-focus lenses to ensure high sharpness and quality of the film. Generally, photography enthusiasts would use a 16 - 35 large three-dimensional lens. As long as they could guarantee the brightness when shooting, they could also get a good performance. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Single lens reflex photography
If it was about DSLR photography, the following were some of the key points for DSLR photography: ** 1. Selection of shooting mode ** 1. ** Portrait Shooting ** - **A (Aperture priority mode)**: suitable for portrait shooting. In this mode, the aperture size could be adjusted manually. A large aperture (such as f/1.8, f/2.8, etc.) could make the background blur, highlight the main body of the character, and obtain a natural blurring effect. It could also increase the amount of light in the case of insufficient light. - **M file (full manual mode)**: Can be used for portrait photography. The photographer had to manually set the sensitivity, aperture, shutter speed, white balance, exposure compensation, focus, color temperature, and other parameters. This mode was suitable for taking portraits under complex lighting conditions, such as indoor lighting or scenes that used specific lighting to create a special atmosphere. 2. ** Shooting of moving objects ** - **S (Shutter priority mode)**: Adjusts the shutter speed. The faster the shutter speed, the more it can freeze the instant image of a moving object. It is suitable for capturing people, animals, or sports events in motion. 3. ** Scenery Shooting ** - **M (Full Manual Mode)**: It is very useful when shooting scenes such as sunrise, sunset, night scene, sea of clouds, starry sky, etc. For landscape photography, you can manually adjust the sensitivity, aperture, shutter speed, and other parameters according to the desired effect. For example, when shooting the starry sky, high sensitivity, large aperture, and slow shutter speed were needed (generally, a tripod was needed to keep the camera stable); when shooting sunrise and sunset, the parameters had to be adjusted according to the light intensity and the desired color effect. ** 2. Shooting Points ** 1. ** In terms of composition ** - ** Find a unique subject **: Choose a good-looking or oddly-shaped subject. This kind of subject will be easily remembered by the audience. - ** Use geometric composition **: For example, a triangular composition can make the picture full of geometric beauty. When shooting a picture that contained multiple elements, the elements could be arranged and combined to form a triangle to increase the stability and beauty of the picture. 2. ** Focus ** - Portrait and animal photography: If you are shooting portraits or animals, pay attention to the light in your eyes. This will make the subject more vivid. For animal photography, you can use methods such as feeding to get the animal to cooperate so that the eyes of the subject have a bright reflection. 3. ** Picture level ** - When shooting a scene, you can increase the layering of the picture by changing the angle of view. For example, lowering the angle of view, using the front and back arrangement of the characters or the changes in reality to create a sense of hierarchy. ** 3. Later adjustments ** Most of the photos taken by the DSLR camera were original photos. They couldn't completely restore the scenery seen by the human eye, so they needed to be retouched later. He could use the phone APP to adjust the light, shadow, contrast, saturation, atmosphere, color temperature, clarity, and other parameters of the photo to adjust the photo to his liking. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>
Professional photography portrait lens
There were many options for professional photography. The following were some common ones: - ** 35mm lens **: This is an environmental portrait lens between the wide-angle and 50mm standard focal length. Its advantage was that it could accommodate the characters and the surrounding environment well in the picture, and it could make the story feel good. It was easier to take full-body photos, and it could even shoot long legs. It was also easy to communicate with the subject at close range. However, it might not be suitable for close-up shots when sweeping the streets and taking photos of unfamiliar girls. It was suitable for shooting scenes such as children at home. The 35mm lenses from sub-factories such as Tenglong and Sigma were relatively cost-effective. - ** 50mm lens **: If the budget is not high and you are a beginner, you can consider this lens. The 50mmF1.8 was a relatively cheap large circle focal point. It was easy to shoot the background blurring effect, but it was difficult to use it well. This focal length could only be used to shoot half of the body indoors, but it was more convenient outdoors. It could be used to practice composition, and it could be used to shoot both half and full-body portraits. - ** 85mm lens **: This was the focal length of a classic portrait lens. Its perspective relationship could obtain a cream-like out-of-focus effect, close to the human eye's vision with almost no distortion. It was suitable for shooting close-up portraits, such as half-body portraits or headshots. It could also shoot full-body portraits if it was retreated appropriately, but the indoor full-body portrait distance required was more than 5 meters. They didn't pursue extreme sharpness and resolution, but retained aberrations to achieve delicate transition of skin tone details and beauty outside of focus. The 85mm lenses of various manufacturers were specially optimized for shooting portraits, but the price was usually higher. - ** 135mm lens **: This is a close-up shot of a person. In theory, it can bring a stronger sense of compression and better blurring effect. It is called a small air cutter, which can separate the person from the background very well. However, the usage rate was relatively low. It was rarely used for other subjects except portraits, and it was easily replaced by 70 - 200mm lenses. - **70 - 200mm lens **: It is also an option for portrait photography. In addition, a standard portrait photography lens usually referred to a lens that took a person at a distance of 1.5m -2m, corresponding to a focal length of 70mm-135mm. According to general aesthetics, the facial features of the person at this distance were more beautiful. <a href="/?from=ask_words" style="color:red" target="_blank">Read more exciting novels for free</a>