Chapter 2

Sunscreen on his face and hands, goggles over his eyes, and he was ready.

Cradling the width of his heavy board between hip and armpit, he reached the dampened sand and waded into the salty water. Later it would become a warm friend, but on this first encounter the cold Pacific shocked as it always did. Dreading that coldness, he forced himself to take in a breath and duck under until he was wet all over. Coming up, he waded out knee deep, then stretched out belly down on his board and paddled out to the bone yard, the place beyond where the waves broke. He sat astride and waited.

Patience paid its dividends as he floated. He finally caught a big wave and stood—hanging five—whooping as happiness filled him and the ocean caught his board and swept unerringly to the shore, where it died.