Life and Livelihood in remote Nepal

"Jai grihasthi" is a greeting heard often in the Far West and Karnali regions of Nepal, and is a way to wish each other success in life, livelihood, household and family. 

Here in Maspur village above Kawadi Khola, on the border between Humla and Bajura districts, a strenuous two-day walk from the nearest road, it is a daily struggle for people to meet basic needs.

Historically, people here flourished as traders, using goats and sheep as pack animals to carry grain from the plains up to Tibet, and bartering it for salt on the plateau. But the region now suffers from food insecurity, health problems, and lack of livelihood options.

The reasons include the end of the Tibet trade, the emergence of roads and markets, a decrease in livestock numbers caused by new grazing restrictions, the destruction of local infrastructure during the Maoist insurgency, and an increase in population.

Most now farm for a living, but agricultural yields are low because of the steep terrain, lack of irrigation, destruction of crops by pests, and antiquated technology. Most families can grow enough food to last only four or five months of the year. For the remaining, they must purchase or borrow food. But cash is scarce, so people rely heavily on subsidised food and loans.

The nearest health post is a two-day walk away, time that farmers cannot afford, particularly during the busy harvest seasons. Tuberculosis and gastrointestinal illnesses are pervasive and exacerbate the symptoms of malnutrition. Many homes do not have toilets, and hygiene is poor.

Women and the 'lower' castes are especially disadvantaged. Women have limited mobility and control over household resources, and Dalits have very little land or education, and suffer discrimination. 

"I do not even know if we are Nepali citizens … we Dalits are neglected and oppressed. We have little property, nobody looks after us, not the government, not the organisations, not the gods," says Romalal Lwaar.

Kathmandu has neglected this part of Nepal, abandoning its people. The elected village council chairman Bagdal Malla said, "We have little budget, but a lot of work to be done. We do not have roads, and transport makes things expensive."

Everyone's priority here is more roads so farmers have access to services and markets. Roads will also make it easier for government and NGO staff to be more effective. 

Said local Rajbahadur Budha, "We have a lot of resources, from our fields and natural resources. If there was a road, we could sell them. There would be more people travelling here, and more business. Without the road, there is no development."

😥🙏😥